Rosés Back in Style

 
When talking wine, in any serious way, the word rosé just does not seem to come up. Wine drinkers in the know can talk white wines and red wines but most of us avoid the blush category as any reference to “pink” wines conjures up just one thought or memory and for most of us it is a memory we simply want to forget.

That forgettable experience many wine drinkers have endured is the drinking of the most well know rosé ever produced, white zinfandel. Made popular in the late 70's and drunk with abandoned during the 80's and well into the 90's, white zinfandel is still being produced and is available right now at your local grocers. This sweet, thin wine bears more resemblance to kool-aid then to real wine and is the wine many wine imbibers cut their wine teeth on. This was the classic entry level wine for many of us. We may have drunk this wine when we didn't know any better, but we have come a long way and our palettes have evolved since then. We have moved on to “real” wine.

Rosé wines are made from red grapes. After the juice is pressed the juice is allowed to have contact with the skins for just a short time. The skin is in contact with the juice for only a day or two which allows for just a hint of color producing a pink wine rather than a red wine. Many rosés made today are made dry or off-dry. Gone are the days of overly sweet rosés. Even rosés made from the zinfandel grape like the white zinfandel of yesterday, bear little resemblance, if any, to the sickly sweet wine so incredibly popular just a decade or two ago. Done right and made well, a rosé can offer a lovely tasting experience and can be very food friendly too. Many high end wine publications are singing the praises of rosé and have published articles touting the resurgence of this category of wine. Times have changed and talented wine makers are making very sophisticated rosés that really appeal to the tastes of dry white and red wine lovers. More of our local wine makers are producing rosés and many are quite good. These wines are weighty with intense fruit and layers of flavor. Not at all like white zinfandel.

The challenge is getting wine lovers to open their minds to rosé again. The marketing of white zinfandel was so effective, that most Americans see a pink wine and just assume it is a sweet, mass produced, uninteresting wine. “Been there, done that, with no desire to do it again” is the feeling. This is what keeps many of us from seriously considering some beautiful, well crafted and well finessed blush wines.

Rosé wines are generally associated with summertime. They are perfect during the warmer weather months when big reds can feel too heavy. Pink wines seem more playful then white wines so they fit with that care free, summer time feeling. They are generally served chilled and that too makes them the perfect warm weather beverage. So you might wonder why I chose this time of year to sing their praises? Now, just as the cool weather is upon us and cold weather looms ahead? The holiday season is a great time to enjoy blush wines. Rosés are typically very food friendly and pair well with many of our traditional holiday dinner items. A roast turkey paired with a fruity dry rosé would make any guest very happy. These versatile, full flavored wines can have broad appeal to a varied group of guests. This Thanksgiving, go pink.

Diane Clerihue-Smith of Roseburg is a wine and food enthusiast and local business owner who conducts tours of Umpqua Valley wineries. She can be reached at diane@oregonwinecountrytours.com.

Next Big Grape?

Malbec, syrah, tempranillo or petite sirah? What will be the wine worlds next big red wine? Will chardonnay continue to dominate the white wine world or will viognier show itself as a real contender to win over white wine palettes? And which will be the wine that puts Douglas County on the wine map and becomes synonymous with the Umpqua Valley just as pinot noir has become synonymous with the Willamette Valley?

As it is in any industry, the wine industry has trends, styles and yes even fads. Trying to predict the next popular wine is difficult. Even if we knew for sure which wine was going to take the masses wine palettes by storm, not every grape grows well in every wine region so there is so much more than just popularity to consider.

Take for instance the Umpqua Valley. The diversity of our topography and climates allows us to grow many different grape varieties well and to make so many great wines.

Tempranillo an early ripening grape does extremely well here and many think this will be the grape we become known for. Syrah does very well here too. Our local climates more closely resemble parts of France so our syrahs are more layered and complex then those produced in hotter wine growing regions like parts of California and Australia. Most of us would not include zinfandel on our list of the Umpqua Valley's most notable contribution to wine but it is one of the longest planted grape varietals in the region and can do very well in warmer years. Petite sirah is not a well known grape variety here either but for those of us who know it and love it there are times when nothing else will do. And yes we can make a stunning petite sirah as well as a luscious zinfandel. Just visit HillCrest Vineyards and try their “Amorone” style zin and their “Gabor” made from petite sirah grown in the Umpqua Valley. Malbec is not at all prolifically grown here but Abacela Winery has been making a stand alone malbec for a number of years from fruit grown right here and has such a huge fan base for their malbec that I sometimes wonder if it even rivals their number of tempranillo fans. I predict you will see more malbec planted here and more wineries experimenting with this grape.

For those of us who are tired of chardonnay, we are so lucky to live here. We can make tremendous chardonnay that is so different from what we are all used to drinking from California. Now that I have had really great chardonnay, I for one would not have a problem if chardonnay never went out of style. But we do other beautiful whites too. Riesling is an exceptional wine when grown and made correctly and can be enjoyed bone dry, off dry or even sweet. Viognier is becoming a popular grape and we have several producers of this Rhone varietal that know how to do it right.

The wine worlds next big wine remains to be seen. As a wine region in its infancy, the Umpqua Valley may yet to have even considered the varietal that will become our signature grape. It may take decades or perhaps even centuries before we get it figured out. And just think of all the great wines we will be drinking as we try new things and experiment with different wines. As it is with life it is with wine. It is all about the journey.

What Dictates Wine Prices?

What makes a bottle of wine carry a certain price tag? And how can there be such a huge difference in the price of wines throughout the country and the world. I mean isn't it all pretty much the same thing...grape juice? Ah... this is where it gets a bit complicated and certainly a bit subjective.

There are many factors considered when pricing a certain wine. Probably the biggest consideration is time. Time is the most expensive thing in life and wines that take more time to process and age, generally and appropriately bring in a higher price point. That is the reason red wines are usually more expensive than whites. Reds are aged longer. Some red wines can spend several years aging before release. Reds are almost always aged in oak barrels too and oak barrels depending on what forest they originate from, can run anywhere from a couple hundred dollars to upwards of one thousand dollars. Barrels can be used almost indefinitely if taken care of but after just three or four years no longer impart any oak flavors into the wine.  For winemakers wanting to impart an oak influence in their wine, new barrels must be purchased often.

Different types of grapes are more expensive and demand higher prices when bought or sold. This can be due to the difficulty of growing that particular variety as some grapes pose more challenges in the vineyard than others. Some grapes varieties yield less grapes per acre than other varieties and certain farming techniques such as dry farming purposely produces less grapes with more concentrated flavors. Dry farmed fruit is of higher quality but there is less of it for the same land usage so this can up the price of a bottle of wine. Sometimes it is due more to the popularity of that particular grape at that particular time. Yes, even in the wine industry there are trends and grapes that are in and those that have fallen out of fashion.

Wines coming from world class wine regions that have proven track records for producing the highest quality wine will always demand more money than wine from those areas that have yet to gain their very deserved reputation or those regions that just do not have the proper climate and soil it takes to grow world class fruit. Wines that win certain awards from well respected judges can often sell for more money. A great year makes a huge difference too. Grapes that were grown during a year in areas experiencing excellent grape growing weather conditions produce better tasting wine and fetch a higher price. So the year or vintage can make a significant difference in price between one wine and another. Even from the same winery producing the same wine. Supply and demand and the health of the economy will have an influence on wine prices too. Just like any other commodity these two factors play a role in what the market will bear.

And then of course there is another factor to the price of wine. One that is usually not discussed or advertised. I guess the best way to describe it in one word is ego. There are those in the wine industry who are what some of us refer to as “very proud of their wines” and consumers out there who are very proud to own these wines. This is a relationship that produces high prices and big attitudes.

How lucky we are to live here in the Umpqua Valley where wine makers just don't play that game and neither do the savvy wine enthusiast who appreciate the quality and proper pricing of our local wines. Our vintners have it all, great climate, quality fruit, and take their time. Everything that is expensive in the world of wine yet they manage to produce world class wines of tremendous value.

Get Out Of Your Wine Rut

So often I am asked by wine tour clients and other wine interested folks what my favorite wine is. I often overhear clients and winery visitors trying to decide at any given winery which wine they like the very best. And this weekend while visiting a winery the tasting room staff member told us she and her husband only drink wines from that particular winery she worked for. So I thought it was high time to address all this and give some straight talk about “favorite” wines and finding wines you like.

I would like you to know when asked, “What is your favorite wine?” I always give the same response, “There are 365 days in the year and I can easily have 365 different favorites!” And this is absolutely the truth. I would no more want to eat the same food everyday then drink the same wine. Nor would I want to eat every meal from the same restaurant and chef everyday either. The point being that different moods as well as different seasons and any food you are enjoying as well as the setting and even those who you are sharing the wine with suggest different wines and ultimately a unique wine experience. These different experiences allow for a myriad of wines to explore and to enjoy and a wine lovers journey is never about finding just one favorite wine it is about the exploration and the advancement of their own wine journey. When visiting a winery and finding wines I like I never try to reduce it all to the best one. I am searching for wines that I find interesting and those that will enrich the enjoyment of my life. I look for wines I think will pair well with certain foods and those I want to enjoy all on their own. I look for warmer weather wines and cool weather wines, deep expressive wines and those that are uncomplicated and easy to drink for those times I just want to sip a glass of wine.

All of the talented wine makers I have ever met have made it clear they drink wine other than their own. I do believe this is what keeps their talent flowing and keeps them trying new things. Most understand the rut of getting what they call “local palate” so make sure they not only drink wines other than their own but make a point of sampling wines from many other wine regions of the world as well. So many I know get inspiration from tasting wines different from their own. For winery insiders to only drink one vintners wine is not only sad but really does themselves and their wine visitors who look to them as experts in their field, a disservice. Without comparisons and without exploration there is no knowledge. Without experiences there is no growth. Without growth there is no wisdom. Not to mention being in a wine rut is dull and no fun! Wines change and evolve in the bottle and each year new wines are released and passionate wine makers are trying out new winemaking styles. Mother nature delivers something different to us every year and to see the expression of nature and nurture in the bottle is fascinating. Drinking wines from other local wineries as well as wines from other states and countries allows for a true understanding of wine and the vastness of the wine world and the uniqueness of different wine regions. Simply put the more you explore outside of your own backyard the more you can appreciate what you have right at home. And you can appreciate it as it fits into a much bigger world out there.

All About Pinot…

Pinot Noir is by far the most widely planted grape variety in Oregon. It is by far the most popular wine made here and certainly the most well know. Oregon has literally established its excellent wine reputation on the ability to produce world class pinot noir. Those of us living in the Umpqua Valley are well aware that we do so much more than make excellent pinot but it is Oregon pinot that has put us on the world wine map. Pinot noir has become synonymous with Oregon wine and has brought us world wide attention and credibility as a wine region to be reckoned with.

Pinot noir is one of the oldest grape varieties to be cultivated for the purpose of making wine. Recognized worldwide as a great wine grape, pinot noir is grown in Algeria, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Brazil, Canada, Croatia Czechoslovakia, England, France, Germany Greece, Hungary, Italy Mexico, New Zealand, Switzerland and the United States. While pinot is grown all over the world it is the pinot noir wines of Burgundy France that have allowed for its tremendous reputation. The two-mile-wide, thirty-mile-long stretch of hills, called the Côte d'Or ("Slope of Gold"), is the holy grail for producing the very best pinot noir wines. Wines from this region are considered the benchmark for great pinot. The Willamette Valley here in Oregon has earned the reputation as the best pinot producing region in the US.

There are many different clones of pinot noir. While there are 46 recognized pinot noir clones in France, there are estimated to be between 200 to 1000 different clones worldwide. Pinot noir is grown for producing the red wine we have come to know and love here in Oregon but it is also the grape used in Champagne and most sparkling wines. It is a very difficult grape to grow. It is thinned skinned and nearly every affliction known to affect grape vines is common among pinot noir vineyards. It is also a very difficult wine to make. The challenges that come with growing and making top quality pinot noir are part of the allure for talented grape growers and vintners. The ability to make a well finessed, balanced, beautiful bottle of pinot is very much the pinnacle for many winemakers and it is that challenge that keeps our dedicated vintners striving each year to make the very best pinot possible.

Great pinot noir creates a lasting impression on both the palate and the memory. With so many clones available, combined with each unique vineyard site and the challenges in growing and producing pinot, there are many different styles of wine made. The quality can vary greatly as can the flavor profiles. Pinots can display fruity characteristics very often black cherry, strawberry and raspberry. Some pinots are more earthy with almost a barnyard quality to them and others are more floral with hints of roses and violets. And there is very often layers of spice and vegital characteristics too. Much to explore and to appreciate in this very complex wine.

While the Umpqua Valley has not yet received the same recognition for making world class Pinot that has been bestowed upon the Willamette Valley many of us think it is just a matter of time before that happens. The numerous awards our areas pinots consistently receive make that very clear. Just get out and try some local pinot noir and you too will be convinced.

Great Summer Wines

Summer is finally here. And with it comes a longing for different wines and different food pairings. Hot days and family gatherings suggest light, easy to drink wines that refresh and invigorate rather than help to put us in the hibernation mode often associated with the short, cold days of winter. So I am devoting this column to some of my favorite summer wines.

Right now I am really enjoying Spangler Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc just does not get the appreciation it deserves especially here in Oregon and there seems to be a lack of understanding about this beautiful variety. More often then not it takes a back seat to the other, better know white varietal Chardonnay. For my money and palette finding a well done Sauvignon Blanc is something worth paying attention to and I highly recommend checking this Sauvignon Blanc out. Serve it cool but not cold and allow its beautiful fruit to shine through. The great balance of acidity keeps it refreshing and makes it a terrific wine to enjoy on its own as well as with light summer salads and pastas. Pat Spangler consistently makes beautiful Sauvignon Blanc and my understanding is this will be the last year they will produce this wine. Do yourself a huge favor and get out and try this wine while you can.

HillCrest Vineyard recently released their very first rose called “Tamas” named after the rosé king of Hungary, Duzsi Tamas. And it is a rosé made for red wine lovers. Dry with terrific intense fruit flavors and with a mouth feel that makes you smack your lips with each sip you just can't stop drinking this wine. This is definitely not your grandmother's rosé and drinks as well alone as it does paired with barbequed items. HillCrest recently released a Pinot Noir Blanc... yes, a pinot noir done like a white wine which has the color of Blanc de Noir Champagne and complex layered fruit that goes on forever. As with all of owner/wine maker Dyson DeMara's wines, the brightness and acidity is fine tuned to perfection. Another excellent summer wine addition and one that could get any self proclaimed red wine only drinker out of the red wine rut.

While on the subject of rosés and they are back in fashion in a really big way, I must draw your attention to Palotai Vineyard's Bella Rosa just right for dry rosé lovers and Becker Vineyard's Rosé which is off dry and the perfect summer deck wine for those looking for a slightly sweeter rosé.

I could not even contemplate writing this column with out singing the praises of Brandborg Vineyard's 2008 Gewurztraminer. Terry Brandborg is well known for his award winning Pinot Nor but consistently produces beautiful Gewurztraminer and this years is fantastic again. This off dry Gewurztraminer is packed with layered fruit and floral flavors with great balance of acidity and would pair very well with spicy Asian inspired barbequed meats or other spicy dishes. That is if you can wait until the food ready! Yummy all on its own too!

These are just a few of my favorites. There are so many more wonderful summer wines out there just waiting for you to discover them. The Umpqua Valley's diverse climates and soils combined with our diverse group of talented wine makers allows for so many different varieties of wines and styles. Truly something for everyone.

 

 

We’re Number One!

By now you have probably heard of the stunning award our local winery Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards received at the recent Riverside International Wine Competition held in Southern California. “Small Winery of the Year” was the honor bestowed upon the Umpqua winery after 9 of its 10 wines entered in the competition took silver medals or better.

I have written about Reustle Prayer Rock many times over the past two years. I began tasting their wines in the Spring of 2007 just after moving here. I can remember my very first visit and how impressed I was with their wines. Gloria & Stephen Reustle were new to the wine industry and they had only recently opened their tasting room. The last three years has brought huge growth for them and their winery. The addition of their wine cave being the most noticeable but less conspicuously there has been significant growth of the vineyard with new grape varieties being planted and new wines being made. They have followed in true Umpqua Valley tradition by claiming a number of firsts for the region including producing the first Grüner Veltliner in the country and building the first wine cave in the Umpqua Valley. They continue to enter their wines in many wine competitions both locally and internationally, receiving many awards and accolades. This most recent, “Small Winery of the Year” award being one of the most prestigious.

This is a deserved award for Reustle Prayer Rock. Their inexhaustible efforts toward making the very best wines possible is obvious. Stephen Reustle is as driven a vintner as I have known and his wine making style is very much his own. But for all of us in the wine industry this award is so much more than just a recognition of one winery and one winemaker. It is a validation of something much bigger. It is a just and overdue recognition of our AVA (American viticulture area) the Umpqua Valley. It is additional proof of what so many have known for so long; the Umpqua Valley produces world class wines and is a world class wine region. Richard Sommer,  Oregon's wine pioneer knew it and believed in the region so strongly he devoted much of his life to Umpqua Valley wine, paving the way for our current winemakers and their families. The terroir of the region has attracted a number of talented, driven, passionate winemakers like Stephen Reustle. The combination of this talent and mother natures gift of great land and proper climate are a recipe for greatness. Greatness that is beginning to be recognized in the world wine community.

This should make us all proud. And I mean all of us, wine lovers and non wine drinkers a like. All of Douglas County residents should stand a little taller and feel a little prouder of their home. Recognition as a legitimate wine region to be reckoned with is good for the local economy. A growing local wine industry means jobs. Award winning wines and wineries means tourist dollars coming in to our small businesses and local communities. This award won by Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards truly is an award shared by all of us here in the county. Congratulations Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards and congratulations Umpqua Valley!