Monday, July 19, 2010

Get Out Of Your Wine Rut

So often I am asked by wine tour clients and other wine interested folks what my favorite wine is. I often overhear clients and winery visitors trying to decide at any given winery which wine they like the very best. And this weekend while visiting a winery the tasting room staff member told us she and her husband only drink wines from that particular winery she worked for. So I thought it was high time to address all this and give some straight talk about “favorite” wines and finding wines you like.

I would like you to know when asked, “What is your favorite wine?” I always give the same response, “There are 365 days in the year and I can easily have 365 different favorites!” And this is absolutely the truth. I would no more want to eat the same food everyday then drink the same wine. Nor would I want to eat every meal from the same restaurant and chef everyday either. The point being that different moods as well as different seasons and any food you are enjoying as well as the setting and even those who you are sharing the wine with suggest different wines and ultimately a unique wine experience. These different experiences allow for a myriad of wines to explore and to enjoy and a wine lovers journey is never about finding just one favorite wine it is about the exploration and the advancement of their own wine journey. When visiting a winery and finding wines I like I never try to reduce it all to the best one. I am searching for wines that I find interesting and those that will enrich the enjoyment of my life. I look for wines I think will pair well with certain foods and those I want to enjoy all on their own. I look for warmer weather wines and cool weather wines, deep expressive wines and those that are uncomplicated and easy to drink for those times I just want to sip a glass of wine.

All of the talented wine makers I have ever met have made it clear they drink wine other than their own. I do believe this is what keeps their talent flowing and keeps them trying new things. Most understand the rut of getting what they call “local palate” so make sure they not only drink wines other than their own but make a point of sampling wines from many other wine regions of the world as well. So many I know get inspiration from tasting wines different from their own. For winery insiders to only drink one vintners wine is not only sad but really does themselves and their wine visitors who look to them as experts in their field, a disservice. Without comparisons and without exploration there is no knowledge. Without experiences there is no growth. Without growth there is no wisdom. Not to mention being in a wine rut is dull and no fun! Wines change and evolve in the bottle and each year new wines are released and passionate wine makers are trying out new winemaking styles. Mother nature delivers something different to us every year and to see the expression of nature and nurture in the bottle is fascinating. Drinking wines from other local wineries as well as wines from other states and countries allows for a true understanding of wine and the vastness of the wine world and the uniqueness of different wine regions. Simply put the more you explore outside of your own backyard the more you can appreciate what you have right at home. And you can appreciate it as it fits into a much bigger world out there.

Monday, July 12, 2010

All About Pinot…

Pinot Noir is by far the most widely planted grape variety in Oregon. It is by far the most popular wine made here and certainly the most well know. Oregon has literally established its excellent wine reputation on the ability to produce world class pinot noir. Those of us living in the Umpqua Valley are well aware that we do so much more than make excellent pinot but it is Oregon pinot that has put us on the world wine map. Pinot noir has become synonymous with Oregon wine and has brought us world wide attention and credibility as a wine region to be reckoned with.

Pinot noir is one of the oldest grape varieties to be cultivated for the purpose of making wine. Recognized worldwide as a great wine grape, pinot noir is grown in Algeria, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Brazil, Canada, Croatia Czechoslovakia, England, France, Germany Greece, Hungary, Italy Mexico, New Zealand, Switzerland and the United States. While pinot is grown all over the world it is the pinot noir wines of Burgundy France that have allowed for its tremendous reputation. The two-mile-wide, thirty-mile-long stretch of hills, called the Côte d'Or ("Slope of Gold"), is the holy grail for producing the very best pinot noir wines. Wines from this region are considered the benchmark for great pinot. The Willamette Valley here in Oregon has earned the reputation as the best pinot producing region in the US.

There are many different clones of pinot noir. While there are 46 recognized pinot noir clones in France, there are estimated to be between 200 to 1000 different clones worldwide. Pinot noir is grown for producing the red wine we have come to know and love here in Oregon but it is also the grape used in Champagne and most sparkling wines. It is a very difficult grape to grow. It is thinned skinned and nearly every affliction known to affect grape vines is common among pinot noir vineyards. It is also a very difficult wine to make. The challenges that come with growing and making top quality pinot noir are part of the allure for talented grape growers and vintners. The ability to make a well finessed, balanced, beautiful bottle of pinot is very much the pinnacle for many winemakers and it is that challenge that keeps our dedicated vintners striving each year to make the very best pinot possible.

Great pinot noir creates a lasting impression on both the palate and the memory. With so many clones available, combined with each unique vineyard site and the challenges in growing and producing pinot, there are many different styles of wine made. The quality can vary greatly as can the flavor profiles. Pinots can display fruity characteristics very often black cherry, strawberry and raspberry. Some pinots are more earthy with almost a barnyard quality to them and others are more floral with hints of roses and violets. And there is very often layers of spice and vegital characteristics too. Much to explore and to appreciate in this very complex wine.

While the Umpqua Valley has not yet received the same recognition for making world class Pinot that has been bestowed upon the Willamette Valley many of us think it is just a matter of time before that happens. The numerous awards our areas pinots consistently receive make that very clear. Just get out and try some local pinot noir and you too will be convinced.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Great Summer Wines

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Summer is finally here. And with it comes a longing for different wines and different food pairings. Hot days and family gatherings suggest light, easy to drink wines that refresh and invigorate rather than help to put us in the hibernation mode often associated with the short, cold days of winter. So I am devoting this column to some of my favorite summer wines.

Right now I am really enjoying Spangler Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc just does not get the appreciation it deserves especially here in Oregon and there seems to be a lack of understanding about this beautiful variety. More often then not it takes a back seat to the other, better know white varietal Chardonnay. For my money and palette finding a well done Sauvignon Blanc is something worth paying attention to and I highly recommend checking this Sauvignon Blanc out. Serve it cool but not cold and allow its beautiful fruit to shine through. The great balance of acidity keeps it refreshing and makes it a terrific wine to enjoy on its own as well as with light summer salads and pastas. Pat Spangler consistently makes beautiful Sauvignon Blanc and my understanding is this will be the last year they will produce this wine. Do yourself a huge favor and get out and try this wine while you can.

HillCrest Vineyard recently released their very first rose called “Tamas” named after the rosé king of Hungary, Duzsi Tamas. And it is a rosé made for red wine lovers. Dry with terrific intense fruit flavors and with a mouth feel that makes you smack your lips with each sip you just can't stop drinking this wine. This is definitely not your grandmother's rosé and drinks as well alone as it does paired with barbequed items. HillCrest recently released a Pinot Noir Blanc... yes, a pinot noir done like a white wine which has the color of Blanc de Noir Champagne and complex layered fruit that goes on forever. As with all of owner/wine maker Dyson DeMara's wines, the brightness and acidity is fine tuned to perfection. Another excellent summer wine addition and one that could get any self proclaimed red wine only drinker out of the red wine rut.

While on the subject of rosés and they are back in fashion in a really big way, I must draw your attention to Palotai Vineyard's Bella Rosa just right for dry rosé lovers and Becker Vineyard's Rosé which is off dry and the perfect summer deck wine for those looking for a slightly sweeter rosé.

I could not even contemplate writing this column with out singing the praises of Brandborg Vineyard's 2008 Gewurztraminer. Terry Brandborg is well known for his award winning Pinot Nor but consistently produces beautiful Gewurztraminer and this years is fantastic again. This off dry Gewurztraminer is packed with layered fruit and floral flavors with great balance of acidity and would pair very well with spicy Asian inspired barbequed meats or other spicy dishes. That is if you can wait until the food ready! Yummy all on its own too!

These are just a few of my favorites. There are so many more wonderful summer wines out there just waiting for you to discover them. The Umpqua Valley's diverse climates and soils combined with our diverse group of talented wine makers allows for so many different varieties of wines and styles. Truly something for everyone.

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Monday, May 31, 2010

We’re Number One!

reustle By now you have probably heard of the stunning award our local winery Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards received at the recent Riverside International Wine Competition held in Southern California. “Small Winery of the Year” was the honor bestowed upon the Umpqua winery after 9 of its 10 wines entered in the competition took silver medals or better.

I have written about Reustle Prayer Rock many times over the past two years. I began tasting their wines in the Spring of 2007 just after moving here. I can remember my very first visit and how impressed I was with their wines. Gloria & Stephen Reustle were new to the wine industry and they had only recently opened their tasting room. The last three years has brought huge growth for them and their winery. The addition of their wine cave being the most noticeable but less conspicuously there has been significant growth of the vineyard with new grape varieties being planted and new wines being made. They have followed in true Umpqua Valley tradition by claiming a number of firsts for the region including producing the first Grüner Veltliner in the country and building the first wine cave in the Umpqua Valley. They continue to enter their wines in many wine competitions both locally and internationally, receiving many awards and accolades. This most recent, “Small Winery of the Year” award being one of the most prestigious.

This is a deserved award for Reustle Prayer Rock. Their inexhaustible efforts toward making the very best wines possible is obvious. Stephen Reustle is as driven a vintner as I have known and his wine making style is very much his own. But for all of us in the wine industry this award is so much more than just a recognition of one winery and one winemaker. It is a validation of something much bigger. It is a just and overdue recognition of our AVA (American viticulture area) the Umpqua Valley. It is additional proof of what so many have known for so long; the Umpqua Valley produces world class wines and is a world class wine region. Richard Sommer,  Oregon's wine pioneer knew it and believed in the region so strongly he devoted much of his life to Umpqua Valley wine, paving the way for our current winemakers and their families. The terroir of the region has attracted a number of talented, driven, passionate winemakers like Stephen Reustle. The combination of this talent and mother natures gift of great land and proper climate are a recipe for greatness. Greatness that is beginning to be recognized in the world wine community.

This should make us all proud. And I mean all of us, wine lovers and non wine drinkers a like. All of Douglas County residents should stand a little taller and feel a little prouder of their home. Recognition as a legitimate wine region to be reckoned with is good for the local economy. A growing local wine industry means jobs. Award winning wines and wineries means tourist dollars coming in to our small businesses and local communities. This award won by Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards truly is an award shared by all of us here in the county. Congratulations Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards and congratulations Umpqua Valley!

Monday, May 24, 2010

One More Place to Taste…

 cluster2                                               We have added another tasting room bringing to 23 the total number of locations to taste wine in the Umpqua Valley. There is nothing that excites me more then to learn of one more place to enjoy the wine making fruits of someone's labor right here in my own backyard.

My husband and I along with two of our dearest friends who enjoy wine as much as we do packed up and drove to HV Cellars new tasting room located in Tenmile just behind the Porter Creek store. We were not at all sure of what to expect. Our knowledge of HV Cellars previously called Hawks View Cellars with a winery located in Myrtle Point, was that they were doing primarily fruit wines. Since we were not fruit wine drinkers and have devoted our lives and our palettes to the appreciation of fine wine, we were a bit skeptical to say the least.

As we entered the tasting room we were pleasantly surprised to find a very neat and appealing room with a tasting bar and two additional tables where groups of four could be accommodated. Looking over the wine list we discovered HV cellars produces more than just fruit wine and we were excited to taste everything they had to offer. Evelyn, the winemakers wife who was working that day, proceeded to take us through the list. We started with the whites, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, both award winning wines and both were lovely and quite unique. We then ventured into the “red zone” and tried the Donna Rosa a Bordeaux blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Merlot added. This wine was a light bodied wine with great fruit, terrific acidity and each sip made me smile and left me wanting another taste. Evelyn told us they call this their spaghetti wine as it paired well with marinara sauce and we loved the idea of a classic French style wine pairing well with a classic Italian dish. Next we sampled the Syrah which was one of the most unusual Syrahs I had ever tasted with licorice, menthol, eucalyptus and spice all surrounding the deep fruit. We finished up the fine wine offerings with the Baco Noir which was rich and well finessed.

That left the four fruit wines. Since I am not a fruit wine drinker and had little experience with fruit wines I could not leave the tasting room without at least sampling their selection but I was absolutely positive I would not like any of them and expected each one to be a sweet, syrupy, cloying mess. Oh how wrong could a person be? We tried three of the four starting with their signature blackberry wine and “yummy” noises filled the room. The wine was like eating perfectly ripe blackberries from the vine at the peak of the season and the richness and depth of flavors was divine. The plum wine was deep and fruity had a lovely aroma of roses and flowers. The final wine was the cranberry wine which tasted exactly as you would expect anything coming from a cranberry would taste like, tart, expressive and full of flavor.

Our group left with wine to enjoy later and it might surprise some to know I took home a few bottles of the fruit wines. While fruit wines will never be regularly consumed at my house I could see a place for them. We all agreed how wonderful it was to have this new addition to our winery family making high quality fine wine and exceptional fruit wines and adding something new to the already amazing Umpqua Valley.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Outdoor Wine Tasting at its Best

Tulips It is that time of year again.  Good weather can be counted on and the days are longer providing us with more time to enjoy our lives outdoors.  With summer fast approaching I know many will be looking for great opportunities and venues to enjoy some of the best our wine country living has to offer. So at risk of sounding like a broken record it is once again time to talk about the best places to find everything you need for a mini vacation right in your own backyard.

While every local winery is worthy of visiting and each has its unique personality there are those wineries who have made big investments in providing outdoor wine country enjoyment.  At the top of my list is Julianna Vineyards and their river side deck. This deck located between their vineyard and the main Umpqua River has been extended to provide more seating and an even closer view of the river.  It is truly an idyllic setting where one can sip wine, relax and loose their cares in the peacefulness of it all.   For those who would like to take the experience one step further Julianna Vineyards is now offering Friday Night Date Night where visitors can preorder their dinners from Aromatica’s Feast in Roseburg and bring them to the Vineyard deck to enjoy with a bottle of Julianna Vineyard’s wine. A more romantic setting does not exist so whether you visit Julianna Vineyards to taste wine or to attend a Friday Night Date night, I highly recommend a visit.

Our newest tasting room Pyrenees Vineyards located just off exit 112 also has a lovely deck built right on the bank of the South Umpqua River.  You can  enjoy their Basque style tasting room and sample their varied wine line up.  Pack a picnic and spend the afternoon enjoying some wine while sitting right on the river.  Mountain views to one side and river views to the other make this a very special place.  The owners of Pyrenees have big plans for future additions to their property to make the property a true destination location and I will keep you posted on all the developments.  But don’t wait for that.  It is perfect just as it is.

Other recommendations for local wineries with outdoor space designed for visitors to stay a while include Becker Vineyard with their cozy deck with vineyard views, come for the wine and stay for the scenery.  Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyard has lovely places to picnic on their vineyard property, some available to wine club members only.  Hillcrest Vineyard added a deck last year so wine lovers can enjoy an expansive view of the Callahans while sipping their tremendous wines.  Henry Estate Winery has lovely grounds and plenty of picnic tables for couples and ideal for lager groups who are looking for a perfect place to spend some wine time.  MarshAnne Landing Winery offers a beautiful art gallery tasting room as well as a fabulous deck built high above the vines which allows maximum appreciation of views of the vineyard and surrounding rolling hills.  Bradley Vineyard in Elkton has the most delightful deck to sip wine and enjoy the vines and mature trees creating a cozy, quaint  feel.  Melrose Vineyards with their incredible well coiffed grounds is a perfect setting for a wine afternoon and Chateau Nonchalant with its delightful tasting room and expanded outside seating begs tasters to stay a while. 

Make plans to visit them all and find those wines and settings that speak to you. We will see you there…

Monday, May 10, 2010

Just Say No To Bill RU 5043

warning On April 15th 2010 RU 5034 a new bill was introduced into Congress which if passed will radically change the way wineries across the country and our state - particularly those right here in Douglas County- do business. And this radical change if implemented will not be good for our winery friends or for our region.

The Bill challenges current law which does not allow individual states to discriminate between in- and out-of-state wineries in matters of direct-to-consumer wine shipping. Direct-to-consumer wine shipping is now legal to varying degrees in 37 states and the District of Columbia.  One winery industry insider describe the proposed bill as  “the most onerous consumer wine law since the passage of the 18th Amendment and the onset of Prohibition”. The draft bill was written by the National Beer Wholesalers’ Association and the current bill RU5034 is virtually identical.  It is supported by the Wine & Spirits WHOLESALERS of America (WSWA) as well. These two organizations want to change the hard fought battles on the part of consumers to receive direct shipment of wines from small out of state wineries. Most recently, court decisions have been made in favor of the consumer but this bill would change that. If passed, HR 5034 will allow for new regulations to be put in place as well as reinstate old regulations on direct shipments of wine. It will also prevent any legal challenges to those regulatory barriers.

The alcohol wholesale associations are touting the legislation as necessary to protect children and minors from access to alcohol.  But to anyone well versed in the ways of purchasing alcohol on line or over the phone this is a ridiculous argument and a very obvious  ploy to guarantee a permanent monopoly for all alcohol to be distributed by their members.  All alcohol including wine, shipped through the US Postal Service, Fed Ex, UPS or any other shipping company requires a signature of someone 21 or over.  John Sasano wine blogger from California wine explains it best,”No youth ever ordered premium wine online, paid by credit card, waited a week for delivery, and presented a legal ID at delivery; if a youth were attempting to obtain alcohol, they would show up at the local convenience store with a $20 bill and ask older shoppers to buy them a 12 pack of Budweiser – instant gratification, realistic, real, no ID required. The “justification” for the bill is a charade. This is nothing more than bought and paid for politicians from both parties doing the bidding of their contributors.”

Many small, family owned wineries and that includes all of the wineries here in the Umpqua Valley rely on shipping directly to their customers to stay in business.This legislation has correctly been called anti-consumer and anti-small business by many. And it is not just the wineries that will suffer. Ending direct shipment of wine means consumers will no longer have the opportunity to enjoy limited release wines from small family owned wineries as most wholesalers don’t bother with small case lots of handcrafted artisan wines.  Consumer choice will be severely limited and support of the country's small artisan wineries will be next to impossible.

So please write or call your local representatives and tell them you oppose RU 5034.  And tell your friends to do the same. The health of our family owned wineries and our local economy depend on it!