Tuesday, September 22, 2009

The ABC's of Wine Lingo!

A few articles back I used a wine word that caused some confusion among readers. It made me think that at some point it might be a good idea to devote a column to the explanation of a few commonly used “wine speak” words. There are hundreds of wine words. Some used to describe certain qualities in the taste of wine and others used as descriptors of the wine making process. Here are a few of the most important to know when talking and tasting wine.

Acidic- Wines need natural acidity to taste fresh and lively, but an excess of acidity results in an acidic wine that is tart and sour. Fruity-Would be on the other end of the scale and refers to the natural fruit sweetness in a wine. A balance of the two is what you are after! Aftertaste or Finish- A tasting term for the taste left on the palate after wine has been swallowed. Appellation - A geographical based term to identify where the grapes for a wine were grown. Aroma, Bouquet, Nose- The smell of a wine. Balance-The harmonious relationship of the components of wine - acids, fruit,tannins, alcohol, etc. - resulting in a well proportioned, or well balanced, wine. To me the most important quality for a wine to have is balance! AVA- An American Viticultural Area is a designated wine grape-growing region in the United States distinguishable by geographic features, with boundaries defined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).
Blending- The mixing of two or more different varietals or parcels of wine together by winemakers to produce a consistent, finished wine that is ready for bottling. Laws generally dictate what wines can be blended together, and what is subsequently printed on the wine label. Brix- A measurement of the dissolved sucrose level in a wine. Corked- A tasting term for a wine that has cork taint. Dry Wines with zero or very low levels of residual sugar. The opposite of sweet, except in sparkling wines, where dry means sweet. Estate wine- Wine made from grapes grown at that winery. Late harvest wine- Also known as late picked,wine made from grapes that have been left on the vine longer than usual. Usually an indicator for a very sweet or dessert wine. Legs- The tracks of liquid that cling to the sides of a glass after the contents have been swirled. Often said to be related to the alcohol or glycerol content of a wine although there is some debate about this. As one expert put it “ In other words, looking at legs is an entertaining diversion while imbibing, like looking at a lava lamp, but it is not very informative.”
I would agree. Means nothing to the overall quality or taste of the wine. Oaked or unoaked wines - Referring to wines aged in oak barrels or with oak chips or wines made with no oak.

Residual sugar- Also known as RS, the level of sugar that remains unfermented in a wine. Tannin- Compounds that give wine a bitter, dry, or puckery feeling in the mouth. Tasting flight - Refers to a selection of wines, usually between three and eight glasses,but sometimes as many as fifty, presented for the purpose of sampling and comparison. Terroir- (Pronounced tare whar )French for "soil", the physical and geographical characteristics of a particular vineyard site that give the resultant
wine its unique properties. Varietal- Type of grape i.e. Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir. Vintage- The year in which a particular wine's grapes were harvested. When a vintage year is indicated on a label, it signifies that all the grapes used to make the wine in the bottle were harvested in that year.

Beyond Kool-Aid

For most Americans our journey of wine begins someplace around the Boones Farm, Annie Green Springs location. For any of you reading this column who do not remember these very important names in American wine history you may of heard of Ripple or White Zinfandel? All of these “wines” had pretty much the same taste profile,with the emphasis on a sweet more like Kool-Aid taste then anything referencing any "real wine" taste characteristics! This was to appeal to the generally less than sophisticated American wine palate and these wines were wildly successful for sometime.

And for those who did not begin in the Kool-Aid wine zone you were definitely a tad more sophisticated with your jugs of Gallo Burgundy or Chablis. I remember my parents always had a big jug of both they used mostly for cooking but they would have a glass of wine or two each week, always the Burgundy and would enjoy it immensely. It was not uncommon for the kids in my family to have a small glass of wine with our parents at the family dinner table. Through the years as my parents budgets increased so did their wine selections and sparkling wines and more sophisticated wines were served to us at the family dinner table. With European parents, wine in my family was looked upon as part of any special meal and the
weekend was always time for a bit more consideration in both the food and wine department.

So by the time I was twenty, I had passed through the jug wine stage with my parents and had come out the other side hooked on Napa Valley Cabs and Sonoma Country Zinfandels (and yes a real Zin is red not pink!). As my husband says I have never looked back! But I do think my experience is somewhat unique and does not illustrate how most of us in this country get introduced to wine nor the progression of most Americans wine journey.

And the journey for most Americans begins well after the age of twenty one and parallels the fads and trends of our very young wine country. It seems one year it is Merlot and Chardonnay and the next Pinot Noir and Syrah. How exciting that we have all these wonderful choices and for those of us lucky enough to live on the west coast we are not far from areas producing this wide variety of different wines. We are no longer limited to Burgundy or Chablis and if anything it may be we have too many choices and end up a bit confused. Or maybe worse, we become a bit overwhelmed and intimidated so stay in our comfort zone and get into a wine rut. Regardless of where you are in your very unique wine journey, if you live here in the Umpqua Valley you can find many local wines to enjoy. We have an array of varietals being grown and made and we have numerous talented wine makers all with different wine making styles. If you are one of those who finds yourself a bit confused or overwhelmed or your wine journey is not taking you on much of a trip, take action. Get out and taste wine as often as possible. Make sure to taste wines you think might be out of your comfort level and push your taste buds envelope just a bit. Ask questions. With our family owned wineries, we have an accessibility to the wine maker not found in most wine regions. Take advantage of that. And trust me....The pay off will be oh so sweet and I do not mean like Kool-Aid!

A Report from Italy

So, Italian wines and American wines. There are many differences just like comparing any other wine growing region to another. Many can be attributed to the differences in terrior and climate and of course the Italians have their own grape varietals, many not grown in the U.S. But the most striking differences between Italian (and for that matter French wines) and American wines are in the making of the wines, specifically in the aging and the capability for the wines to age.

In Tuscany where we spent two weeks they grow almost exclusively Sangiovese a red grape varietal. Sangiovese is not grown in Oregon as it requires a longer hotter growing season then mother nature provides here but it is easy to find in California and has always been one of my favorite grapes. Brunello (the little dark one) is a strain of Sangiovese and is synonymous with Sangiovese. The process from picking the grape, making the wine, getting it in to the bottle and having it available for consumption takes a minimum of five years, six years for the Reserva! When we visited the many tasting rooms or visited the numerous wine shops the youngest Brunello available was the 2003 vintage. This year was mixed in with many bottles from 2000, 2001, 2002, and some even dating back to the late nineties. Italian wines are made in a style that begs to be aged and can lay down for five to ten years before they are at their peak. Even their Super Tuscans are aged a minimum of 3 years!

American wine makers make wine for the American palate and the American culture. Our society is a much faster paced, want it all now, immediate gratification society and this is reflected in the aging style of our wines. Just compare
the Italian 2 hour sit down lunches including a glass or two of wine with our 30 minute drive-through fast food lunches washed down with a diet coke - often as we are driving down the road on our way to run an errand before we must get back to work! Most of our wines are made with the emphasis on a fruit forward, easily accessible, ready to drink now style. Aging is minimal before our wines are available for sale and this is what the American wine consumer wants. The average time in America from buying a bottle of wine to consuming it is 40 minutes!

It has been one week since my return from Italy and I am still basking in the beauty of the country and the beauty of their wines. For me the great thing about travel to another country is the exploration of and the assimilation into another culture. I love the food, the history, the wine (I do not travel to places that do not have great wine) and the land. And I always come home with a renewed appreciation for my own culture and our food and wine. I have to say as much as I love Italy and their amazing Brunellos and appreciate their wine making style we have a little piece of wine paradise right here in The Umpqua Valley. And I wouldn’t trade our wine paradise or our wines for all the aged Brunello in Italy!

A Votre Sante!

When I hear about the health benefits of wine and red wine in particular it makes me quite happy if not just a bit relieved! For someone who loves wine and who drinks a glass or two of wine most nights with dinner(and on special occasions which could be loosely defined as a night we open a particularly interesting, fine wine, a glass or two more ), I am more than interested to hear the positives of my imbibing activities…

Since I first heard of the highly publicized French paradox a number of years ago, my interest was peaked. The French paradox refers to the French who eat a diet with a tremendous amount of fat in it, yet have a very low incidence of heart disease. But this report was a bit vague and I had been to France and it seemed obvious to me that their culture of walking and cycling everywhere as well as seldom overeating, probably had as much to do with their healthy hearts as their consumption of red wine.

In the past few years a lot of attention has been given to this subject and much more has been discovered. Most of us have heard that moderate wine consumption is good for your heart. What many have not heard is that the findings on the health benefits of wine are much broader then just that. Other positive health benefits
are being proven by serious medical studies including: delaying dementia such as Alzheimer’s, preventing rheumatoid arthritis and an increased bone density in older women, reduction of colds in wine drinkers by up to 50% over non wine drinkers, protection against the flu, lower type 2 diabetes risk, reducing throat cancer risk, maximizing melatonin while detoxifying cells and providing powerful antioxidants, and increasing those healthy fatty acids omega 3’s !

While I am happy to say I am a very healthy person, at 47 I am probably too young to experience the onset of many of the health problems wine consumption could be a help to. I can say, my lack of getting the common cold and the flu year after year while my coworkers hacked and coughed there way through the season was often a mystery to all of us as well as an annoyance to everyone but me! And as great as it is rarely getting the cold or the flu, I have to be honest, when it boils down to it, it matters little to me the health benefits of wine. Now don’t get me wrong. I am elated to know one of the biggest pleasures in my life will not only not kill me, but will in fact make me even healthier! But it is the other positive benefits wine brings to the quality of my life that mean the most to me. Every event, from the sharing of a weekday dinner with your family to the most important of occasions such as a wedding celebration, is just that much more special with a great glass of wine! The happiness I feel when I share a great bottle of wine or two along side a good meal with dear friends is to my life, the healthiest benefit of all. And now it
appears I will be able to enjoy this simple pleasure for many healthy years to come!

Monday, September 21, 2009

Try a Fall Picnic

The signs of summer’s end and the beginning of fall are all around us. The longer shadows, shorter days and cooler nights are impossible to ignore and always impart a feeling of melancholy for me. Since I became obsessed with wine the true indicators of summer lost seem to be all wine related. The wine cannons going off down the road, the clusters of very ripe fruit, plump and promising hanging from the vines and of course the activity and equipment at the wineries as they prepare for crush! My favorite season is almost over and winter is unavoidable. But before my feelings of wanting to just hibernate for a few months to return to the world rested and thinner kick in (why can’t we really do that?) there is much still to enjoy with the few days of Indian Summer we are bound to get!

So before we have to pull out our sweatshirts and rain gear, we will surely have a few days of shorts & sandals weather and these last sunny days of the year are in my opinion some of the very nicest.To encourage you to get out and take advantage of them I have suggestions of some of the best outside wine venues you can find.

Julianna Vineyards with their deck right on the river tops my list for the place to spend a late summer, early autumn afternoon. Pack a few snacks and buy a bottle or two of wine to share with some good friends and sit back and relax with the natural beauty of the Umpqua River there just for your enjoyment! Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards has a park like setting and for those of you lucky enough to be wine club members you are already aware of the amazing deck with expansive views of the property and vineyards. Becker Vineyard has a lovely deck looking out to the vineyard and I have spent many magical times there soaking up the sun as well as their terrific pinot noir! MarshAnne Landing can not be beat for an afternoon of picnicking with their beautiful deck and views as well as their incredible tasting room with fabulous art scattered about. A visit here is a feast for the senses
and their excellent wines are only one of the reasons to come here! Henry Estate

Winery’s Gewürztraminer and Mueller Thurgau warrant a stop and their beautiful grounds will make you want to stay for a while. Melrose Vineyards has stunning grounds and makes for a terrific afternoon get away. Delfino Vineyards has a lovely area for picnicking and their award winning syrah will surely make any afternoon spent here one you will not soon forget. HillCrest Vineyard has a new deck and incredible views of the Callahan’s and couple this with some of the very best wines the Umpqua Valley (or anywhere else for that matter) has to offer and you are in heaven! Chateau Nonchalant has an exceptionally peaceful, lovely picnic spot and if you have not yet made a visit, now is the perfect time. Bradley Vineyards
in Elkton would be my suggestion for spending some quality time when out that way. Misty Oaks has a great lawn for spreading out that summer picnic blanket just one more time and has some bold reds worthy of a late summer afternoon. As always… I will see you there!

Here's Looking Through You!

I recently talked with a loyal reader of this column who loves wine and suggested I write about wine glasses and how they play a role in the wine tasting experience. She like many of us, found out how the type of glass you drink wine from can enhance or detract from the taste.

Now I know this might sound a bit far fetched to some of you, but trust me it is true. There are wine glasses designed specifically for over 20 different varietals each with a stem, a foot and a bowl but with differences in their shape to capture the subtle characteristics of each wine. There are glasses designed for varietalsfrom Bordeaux, Burgundy and Chianti and everything in between. There is even an Oregon Pinot glass designed exclusively for Oregon Pinot Noir that boasts depositing the wine directly on to just the right spot on your tongue for the maximum appreciation of our most famous grape. And believe it or not it really does!

But for most of us it is cost prohibitive as well as space prohibitive to have 20 of more different wine glass designs.It is also unnecessary for everyday wine appreciation. Most of us would just like to have one or two good glasses that will work well for most varietals. I suggest investing in three styles of stemware. One for champagne, one for white wines and one for reds. Each of these glasses should be made of thin glass so it feels natural between your lips and they should have nice big bowls. Champagne flutes are long and narrow, designed to keep the bubbles bubbling for longer and to allow the wine to stay colder longer. White wine glasses too are shaped more narrow than red glasses, to account for the cooler serving temperature as well as to direct the aroma of the wine right up to your face.

An appropriate red glass will have a wider, more open bowl to allow for breathing and swirling and since reds are not served as cold as whites, less worry about maintaining a cold temperature.

Wine glasses should never be any other color than clear. Appreciating the differences in the array of wine colors is part of the wine tasting experience. Color can tell you a lot about a wine and if the glass has a colored bowl
or stem it alters the color of the wine. Stemless glasses have made a bit of a hit with some of our younger wineaux but they are absolutely not for me or for any of my wine friends. Keeping your hands off the bowl of the glass so as not to heat up your wine is absolutely critical in optimizing the nuances of each wine.

If you don’t believe this all makes a difference try the same wine served in two different glasses and see for yourself. Nothing takes a glass of wine from ordinary to extraordinary like drinking it at the correct temperature from a well designed vessel. Life is too short to drink bad wine. And it is too short to drink good wine out of crummy glasses. Cheers!

Magical Wine Events

One of the things I miss most coming from a well developed wine region is the choices in fine dining and good wine bars. Since moving here, I have visited every wine bar and every restaurant boasting a good wine list. Until now I had not been overly impressed. But Friday night I visited Anthony’s Restaurant and then their new wine bar Bella Serra and came home knowing we are evolving into a wine town to be proud of!

My husband and I went with two of our dearest friends who really know good food and wine. I respect their culinary opinions more then just about anyone I know and we have visited other wine bars and restaurants together. Our friends had been to Anthony’s before and had given it favorable reviews but it was my husbands and my first time there and none of us had visited the wine bar located just behind the restaurant. Anthony’s menu was quite extensive with choices from veal to clams and their wine list boasted some of the best wines of the Umpqua Valley.

They offered a nice selection of Italian wines and I was so pleased to see micro beer on tap available too. Our dinner was good and the waiter Carl put up with my questions on how they stored their wines and my observation that they serve their whites too cold- a common mistake made at many restaurants. We ordered a lovely bold Italian wine and it came promptly and was enjoyed by all.

After dinner we moved to Bella Serra their wine bar located in a separate space just behind the restaurant. The minute I walked in I was impressed with the energy of the place. It felt very inviting with an intimate feeling about it. The acoustics were really good and the lighting was just right, creating a warm soft feeling. The entry way was decorated with art by local artists and one picture was so nice our friends could not resist taking it home with them. We chose a comfy table and sat down to the melody of a two man band playing some popular tunes. The band was quite good and perfect for the venue. You could easily hold a conversation and hear the music. We ordered glasses of wine and I could not help ordering the Ahi Tuna appetizer. Cooked to perfection! Everything was just right. The service provided by our same Anthony’s waiter Carl, the music, the food and most importantly the wine. We all agreed they had something pretty special here. We talked about how nice it will be to come in the summer during the wonderful warm evenings and sit out on the large patio, sipping fine wine (or a beer on tap) while enjoying the great food, good service and good tunes.

After visiting Bella Serra I know Roseburg has finally arrived into the world of wine beyond our excellent wineries. The ability to share fine wine and good food with friends should not end at the close of our local wineries or be limited to our own homes. And with Bella Serra in business it doesn’t have to be.

Life in the Slow Lane

I am one of the luckiest people on the planet! I really mean it! I live in the Umpqua Valley with it’s natural beauty, tremendous climate and the amazing wine. Each weekend is an adventure for me touring the Umpqua in search of fabulous wines and meeting other like minded, kindred wine spirits on the same quest!

So Sunday, my husband and I found ourselves with a day off. It was time to do a bit of wine research on our own and we knew exactly where we needed to go. The day before we had visited Palotai Vineyards and found Gabor’s "Indigo" a big red blend, recently released, better then ever. Yum! Yum! Yum! And we had stopped with our guests at Giardet Wine Cellars and really enjoyed the Grand Rouge as well
as their well known Baco Noir. But this day it was the newly released Pinot Noir by Becker Vineyards we were out to try.

As we arrived at The Becker Vineyards tasting room, we were greeted warmly by Peggy and Charlie Becker. They had some wine guests just finishing up tasting and we all talked wine for a few minutes. Their Pinot Gris and Rose were not new to me and I had tasted their Pinot before, but only out of the barrel. As we sipped the Pinot I marveled at it’s evolution from barrel to bottle. The tannins were soft and the cherry fruit easily identifiable. As the Becker’s poured us another taste I was struck by how accessible and easy to drink this wine was. Somewhat unusual for such a young wine! We were then treated to a taste of their Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
both still in barrels. These wines were impressive with the Syrah exhibiting classic Syrah pepper notes and the Cabernet Sauvignon, deep and rich with plenty of cherry and black cherry fruit.

Since the day was winding down and the tasting room was closing, the Becker’s invited us to join them on their beautiful deck overlooking their vineyard for a further examination of their delicious Pinot Noir. How could we refuse? So for the next hour we talked wine and friendship and hard work and passion and through the whole wonderful discussion,we were sipping this great wine. The weather had begun to change a bit earlier in the day and it now began to thunder,lightning and rain! Big drops and loud bangs were upon us and we were delighted. The magical weather seemed fitting for this magical time the four of us were experiencing. We continued sipping Pinot talking and watching the lightning bolts as they crackled through the sky. No one even considered moving out of the rain!

This amazing afternoon spent on the deck of Becker Vineyards won‘t soon be forgotten! It does not get any better then this. Yes, I am one of the luckiest people on the planet. And for those of you reading this who live right here in The Umpqua Valley,you are as well! Truly memorable, magical experiences that occur when you bring fine wine, beautiful surroundings and passionate people together are available to all of us living here. Just spend an afternoon visiting one or two
of our family owned wineries and I have no doubt a magical afternoon will emerge for you too!

A Well Developed Wine Region

The importance of food and wine pairing is becoming well
understood and we are seeing much more effort and awareness in
our local wine events. As we become more wine savvy, spending
more time and money seeking out our favorite wines, food and
wine pairing becomes absolutely essential. We all want to get
the very best and the very most from our favorite wines. Pairing
the right foods with the complimentary wines will do just that
and take your wine enjoyment to new heights!

Food and wine pairing is a highly subjective and inexact
process. The old rules — primarily red wine with red meat and
white wine with fish and poultry — don't take into consideration
the complexity of today's multi-ethnic and subtly flavored foods
and the corresponding wide range of wines from around the world
that are now conveniently available to almost everyone. So that
means there's considerable room for experimentation and
expression of your own personality in pairing food and wine. Yippee!

The ultimate goal when pairing food and wine is synergy and
balance. The wine shouldn't overpower the food, nor should the
food overpower the wine. spacer
Wine should enhance the flavor of food and vise versa! A good
match will bring out the nuances and enhance the flavors and
unique characteristics of both the food and the wine. When I am
experimenting with a new recipe, I will try it with a few wines
I think might pair well and then make a note of the one that
really works.

Here are a few guidelines to help get you started in the right
direction.

When you're serving more than one wine at a meal, it's
customary to serve lighter wines before full-bodied ones.
Dry wines should be served before sweet wines unless a
sweet flavored dish is served early in the meal. In that
case match the sweet dish with a similarly sweet wine.
Lower alcohol wines should be served before higher alcohol
wines.

Balance flavor intensity. Pair light-bodied wines with
lighter food and fuller-bodied wines with heartier, more
flavorful, richer and fattier dishes.


Consider how the food is prepared. Delicately flavored
foods — poached or steamed — pair best with delicate
wines. It's easier to pair wines with more flavorfully
prepared food — braised, grilled, roasted or sautéed. Pair
the wine with the sauce, seasoning or dominant flavor of
the dish.


Match flavors. An earthy Pinot Noir goes well with
mushroom soup and the grapefruit/citrus taste of Sauvignon
Blancs goes with fish for the same reasons that lemon does.

Balance sweetness. But, beware of pairing a wine with food
that is sweeter than the wine, although I do like
chocolate with Cabernet Sauvignon. I also like chocolate
with good dark beer. Come to think of it, I like chocolate
with just about anything and a good dark beer with just
about anything! But that is a topic that deserves a column
of its' own


Consider pairing opposites. Very hot or spicy foods — some
Thai dishes, or hot curries for example — often work best
with sweet desert wines. Opposing flavors can play off
each other, creating new flavor sensations and cleansing
the palate.

Use your instincts and experiment! To put together a meal that
tastes great with your favorite wines, is a very satisfying
accomplishment.

You call this Work?

The signs of summer’s end and the beginning of fall are all around us. The longer shadows, shorter days and cooler nights are impossible to ignore and always impart a feeling of melancholy for me. Since I became obsessed with wine the true indicators of summer lost seem to be all wine related. The wine cannons going off down the road, the clusters of very ripe fruit, plump and promising hanging from the vines and of course the activity and equipment at the wineries as they prepare for crush! My favorite season is almost over and winter is unavoidable. But before my feelings of wanting to just hibernate for a few months to return to the world rested and thinner kick in (why can’t we really do that?) there is much still to enjoy with the few days of Indian Summer we are bound to get!

So before we have to pull out our sweatshirts and rain gear, we will surely have a few days of shorts & sandals weather and these last sunny days of the year are in my opinion some of the very nicest. To encourage you to get out and take advantage of them I have suggestions of some of the best outside wine venues you can find.

Julianna Vineyards with their deck right on the river tops my list for the place to spend a late summer, early autumn afternoon. Pack a few snacks and buy a bottle or two of wine to share with some good friends and sit back and relax with the natural beauty of the Umpqua River there just for your enjoyment! Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards has a park like setting and for those of you lucky enough to be wine club members you are already aware of the amazing deck with expansive views of the property and vineyards. Becker Vineyard has a lovely deck looking out to the vineyard and I have spent many magical times there soaking up the sun as well as their terrific pinot noir! MarshAnne Landing can not be beat for an afternoon of picnicking with their beautiful deck and views as well as their incredible tasting room with fabulous art scattered about. A visit here is a feast for the senses and their excellent wines are only one of the reasons to come here! Henry Estate Winery’s Gewürztraminer and Mueller Thurgau warrant a stop and their beautiful grounds will make you want to stay for a while. Melrose Vineyards has stunning grounds and makes for a terrific afternoon get away. Delfino Vineyards has a lovely area for picnicking and their award winning syrah will surely make any afternoon spent here one you will not soon forget. HillCrest Vineyard has a new deck and incredible views of the Callahan’s and couple this with some of the very best wines the Umpqua Valley (or anywhere else for that matter) has to offer and you are in heaven! Chateau Nonchalant has an exceptionally peaceful, lovely picnic spot and if you have not yet made a visit, now is the perfect time. Bradley Vineyards in Elkton would be my suggestion for spending some quality time when out that way. Misty Oaks has a great lawn for spreading out that summer picnic blanket just one more time and has some bold reds worthy of a late summer afternoon. As always… I will see you there!