Rosés Back in Style

 
When talking wine, in any serious way, the word rosé just does not seem to come up. Wine drinkers in the know can talk white wines and red wines but most of us avoid the blush category as any reference to “pink” wines conjures up just one thought or memory and for most of us it is a memory we simply want to forget.

That forgettable experience many wine drinkers have endured is the drinking of the most well know rosé ever produced, white zinfandel. Made popular in the late 70's and drunk with abandoned during the 80's and well into the 90's, white zinfandel is still being produced and is available right now at your local grocers. This sweet, thin wine bears more resemblance to kool-aid then to real wine and is the wine many wine imbibers cut their wine teeth on. This was the classic entry level wine for many of us. We may have drunk this wine when we didn't know any better, but we have come a long way and our palettes have evolved since then. We have moved on to “real” wine.

Rosé wines are made from red grapes. After the juice is pressed the juice is allowed to have contact with the skins for just a short time. The skin is in contact with the juice for only a day or two which allows for just a hint of color producing a pink wine rather than a red wine. Many rosés made today are made dry or off-dry. Gone are the days of overly sweet rosés. Even rosés made from the zinfandel grape like the white zinfandel of yesterday, bear little resemblance, if any, to the sickly sweet wine so incredibly popular just a decade or two ago. Done right and made well, a rosé can offer a lovely tasting experience and can be very food friendly too. Many high end wine publications are singing the praises of rosé and have published articles touting the resurgence of this category of wine. Times have changed and talented wine makers are making very sophisticated rosés that really appeal to the tastes of dry white and red wine lovers. More of our local wine makers are producing rosés and many are quite good. These wines are weighty with intense fruit and layers of flavor. Not at all like white zinfandel.

The challenge is getting wine lovers to open their minds to rosé again. The marketing of white zinfandel was so effective, that most Americans see a pink wine and just assume it is a sweet, mass produced, uninteresting wine. “Been there, done that, with no desire to do it again” is the feeling. This is what keeps many of us from seriously considering some beautiful, well crafted and well finessed blush wines.

Rosé wines are generally associated with summertime. They are perfect during the warmer weather months when big reds can feel too heavy. Pink wines seem more playful then white wines so they fit with that care free, summer time feeling. They are generally served chilled and that too makes them the perfect warm weather beverage. So you might wonder why I chose this time of year to sing their praises? Now, just as the cool weather is upon us and cold weather looms ahead? The holiday season is a great time to enjoy blush wines. Rosés are typically very food friendly and pair well with many of our traditional holiday dinner items. A roast turkey paired with a fruity dry rosé would make any guest very happy. These versatile, full flavored wines can have broad appeal to a varied group of guests. This Thanksgiving, go pink.

Diane Clerihue-Smith of Roseburg is a wine and food enthusiast and local business owner who conducts tours of Umpqua Valley wineries. She can be reached at diane@oregonwinecountrytours.com.

Next Big Grape?

Malbec, syrah, tempranillo or petite sirah? What will be the wine worlds next big red wine? Will chardonnay continue to dominate the white wine world or will viognier show itself as a real contender to win over white wine palettes? And which will be the wine that puts Douglas County on the wine map and becomes synonymous with the Umpqua Valley just as pinot noir has become synonymous with the Willamette Valley?

As it is in any industry, the wine industry has trends, styles and yes even fads. Trying to predict the next popular wine is difficult. Even if we knew for sure which wine was going to take the masses wine palettes by storm, not every grape grows well in every wine region so there is so much more than just popularity to consider.

Take for instance the Umpqua Valley. The diversity of our topography and climates allows us to grow many different grape varieties well and to make so many great wines.

Tempranillo an early ripening grape does extremely well here and many think this will be the grape we become known for. Syrah does very well here too. Our local climates more closely resemble parts of France so our syrahs are more layered and complex then those produced in hotter wine growing regions like parts of California and Australia. Most of us would not include zinfandel on our list of the Umpqua Valley's most notable contribution to wine but it is one of the longest planted grape varietals in the region and can do very well in warmer years. Petite sirah is not a well known grape variety here either but for those of us who know it and love it there are times when nothing else will do. And yes we can make a stunning petite sirah as well as a luscious zinfandel. Just visit HillCrest Vineyards and try their “Amorone” style zin and their “Gabor” made from petite sirah grown in the Umpqua Valley. Malbec is not at all prolifically grown here but Abacela Winery has been making a stand alone malbec for a number of years from fruit grown right here and has such a huge fan base for their malbec that I sometimes wonder if it even rivals their number of tempranillo fans. I predict you will see more malbec planted here and more wineries experimenting with this grape.

For those of us who are tired of chardonnay, we are so lucky to live here. We can make tremendous chardonnay that is so different from what we are all used to drinking from California. Now that I have had really great chardonnay, I for one would not have a problem if chardonnay never went out of style. But we do other beautiful whites too. Riesling is an exceptional wine when grown and made correctly and can be enjoyed bone dry, off dry or even sweet. Viognier is becoming a popular grape and we have several producers of this Rhone varietal that know how to do it right.

The wine worlds next big wine remains to be seen. As a wine region in its infancy, the Umpqua Valley may yet to have even considered the varietal that will become our signature grape. It may take decades or perhaps even centuries before we get it figured out. And just think of all the great wines we will be drinking as we try new things and experiment with different wines. As it is with life it is with wine. It is all about the journey.

What Dictates Wine Prices?

What makes a bottle of wine carry a certain price tag? And how can there be such a huge difference in the price of wines throughout the country and the world. I mean isn't it all pretty much the same thing...grape juice? Ah... this is where it gets a bit complicated and certainly a bit subjective.

There are many factors considered when pricing a certain wine. Probably the biggest consideration is time. Time is the most expensive thing in life and wines that take more time to process and age, generally and appropriately bring in a higher price point. That is the reason red wines are usually more expensive than whites. Reds are aged longer. Some red wines can spend several years aging before release. Reds are almost always aged in oak barrels too and oak barrels depending on what forest they originate from, can run anywhere from a couple hundred dollars to upwards of one thousand dollars. Barrels can be used almost indefinitely if taken care of but after just three or four years no longer impart any oak flavors into the wine.  For winemakers wanting to impart an oak influence in their wine, new barrels must be purchased often.

Different types of grapes are more expensive and demand higher prices when bought or sold. This can be due to the difficulty of growing that particular variety as some grapes pose more challenges in the vineyard than others. Some grapes varieties yield less grapes per acre than other varieties and certain farming techniques such as dry farming purposely produces less grapes with more concentrated flavors. Dry farmed fruit is of higher quality but there is less of it for the same land usage so this can up the price of a bottle of wine. Sometimes it is due more to the popularity of that particular grape at that particular time. Yes, even in the wine industry there are trends and grapes that are in and those that have fallen out of fashion.

Wines coming from world class wine regions that have proven track records for producing the highest quality wine will always demand more money than wine from those areas that have yet to gain their very deserved reputation or those regions that just do not have the proper climate and soil it takes to grow world class fruit. Wines that win certain awards from well respected judges can often sell for more money. A great year makes a huge difference too. Grapes that were grown during a year in areas experiencing excellent grape growing weather conditions produce better tasting wine and fetch a higher price. So the year or vintage can make a significant difference in price between one wine and another. Even from the same winery producing the same wine. Supply and demand and the health of the economy will have an influence on wine prices too. Just like any other commodity these two factors play a role in what the market will bear.

And then of course there is another factor to the price of wine. One that is usually not discussed or advertised. I guess the best way to describe it in one word is ego. There are those in the wine industry who are what some of us refer to as “very proud of their wines” and consumers out there who are very proud to own these wines. This is a relationship that produces high prices and big attitudes.

How lucky we are to live here in the Umpqua Valley where wine makers just don't play that game and neither do the savvy wine enthusiast who appreciate the quality and proper pricing of our local wines. Our vintners have it all, great climate, quality fruit, and take their time. Everything that is expensive in the world of wine yet they manage to produce world class wines of tremendous value.

Get Out Of Your Wine Rut

So often I am asked by wine tour clients and other wine interested folks what my favorite wine is. I often overhear clients and winery visitors trying to decide at any given winery which wine they like the very best. And this weekend while visiting a winery the tasting room staff member told us she and her husband only drink wines from that particular winery she worked for. So I thought it was high time to address all this and give some straight talk about “favorite” wines and finding wines you like.

I would like you to know when asked, “What is your favorite wine?” I always give the same response, “There are 365 days in the year and I can easily have 365 different favorites!” And this is absolutely the truth. I would no more want to eat the same food everyday then drink the same wine. Nor would I want to eat every meal from the same restaurant and chef everyday either. The point being that different moods as well as different seasons and any food you are enjoying as well as the setting and even those who you are sharing the wine with suggest different wines and ultimately a unique wine experience. These different experiences allow for a myriad of wines to explore and to enjoy and a wine lovers journey is never about finding just one favorite wine it is about the exploration and the advancement of their own wine journey. When visiting a winery and finding wines I like I never try to reduce it all to the best one. I am searching for wines that I find interesting and those that will enrich the enjoyment of my life. I look for wines I think will pair well with certain foods and those I want to enjoy all on their own. I look for warmer weather wines and cool weather wines, deep expressive wines and those that are uncomplicated and easy to drink for those times I just want to sip a glass of wine.

All of the talented wine makers I have ever met have made it clear they drink wine other than their own. I do believe this is what keeps their talent flowing and keeps them trying new things. Most understand the rut of getting what they call “local palate” so make sure they not only drink wines other than their own but make a point of sampling wines from many other wine regions of the world as well. So many I know get inspiration from tasting wines different from their own. For winery insiders to only drink one vintners wine is not only sad but really does themselves and their wine visitors who look to them as experts in their field, a disservice. Without comparisons and without exploration there is no knowledge. Without experiences there is no growth. Without growth there is no wisdom. Not to mention being in a wine rut is dull and no fun! Wines change and evolve in the bottle and each year new wines are released and passionate wine makers are trying out new winemaking styles. Mother nature delivers something different to us every year and to see the expression of nature and nurture in the bottle is fascinating. Drinking wines from other local wineries as well as wines from other states and countries allows for a true understanding of wine and the vastness of the wine world and the uniqueness of different wine regions. Simply put the more you explore outside of your own backyard the more you can appreciate what you have right at home. And you can appreciate it as it fits into a much bigger world out there.

All About Pinot…

Pinot Noir is by far the most widely planted grape variety in Oregon. It is by far the most popular wine made here and certainly the most well know. Oregon has literally established its excellent wine reputation on the ability to produce world class pinot noir. Those of us living in the Umpqua Valley are well aware that we do so much more than make excellent pinot but it is Oregon pinot that has put us on the world wine map. Pinot noir has become synonymous with Oregon wine and has brought us world wide attention and credibility as a wine region to be reckoned with.

Pinot noir is one of the oldest grape varieties to be cultivated for the purpose of making wine. Recognized worldwide as a great wine grape, pinot noir is grown in Algeria, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Brazil, Canada, Croatia Czechoslovakia, England, France, Germany Greece, Hungary, Italy Mexico, New Zealand, Switzerland and the United States. While pinot is grown all over the world it is the pinot noir wines of Burgundy France that have allowed for its tremendous reputation. The two-mile-wide, thirty-mile-long stretch of hills, called the Côte d'Or ("Slope of Gold"), is the holy grail for producing the very best pinot noir wines. Wines from this region are considered the benchmark for great pinot. The Willamette Valley here in Oregon has earned the reputation as the best pinot producing region in the US.

There are many different clones of pinot noir. While there are 46 recognized pinot noir clones in France, there are estimated to be between 200 to 1000 different clones worldwide. Pinot noir is grown for producing the red wine we have come to know and love here in Oregon but it is also the grape used in Champagne and most sparkling wines. It is a very difficult grape to grow. It is thinned skinned and nearly every affliction known to affect grape vines is common among pinot noir vineyards. It is also a very difficult wine to make. The challenges that come with growing and making top quality pinot noir are part of the allure for talented grape growers and vintners. The ability to make a well finessed, balanced, beautiful bottle of pinot is very much the pinnacle for many winemakers and it is that challenge that keeps our dedicated vintners striving each year to make the very best pinot possible.

Great pinot noir creates a lasting impression on both the palate and the memory. With so many clones available, combined with each unique vineyard site and the challenges in growing and producing pinot, there are many different styles of wine made. The quality can vary greatly as can the flavor profiles. Pinots can display fruity characteristics very often black cherry, strawberry and raspberry. Some pinots are more earthy with almost a barnyard quality to them and others are more floral with hints of roses and violets. And there is very often layers of spice and vegital characteristics too. Much to explore and to appreciate in this very complex wine.

While the Umpqua Valley has not yet received the same recognition for making world class Pinot that has been bestowed upon the Willamette Valley many of us think it is just a matter of time before that happens. The numerous awards our areas pinots consistently receive make that very clear. Just get out and try some local pinot noir and you too will be convinced.

Great Summer Wines

Summer is finally here. And with it comes a longing for different wines and different food pairings. Hot days and family gatherings suggest light, easy to drink wines that refresh and invigorate rather than help to put us in the hibernation mode often associated with the short, cold days of winter. So I am devoting this column to some of my favorite summer wines.

Right now I am really enjoying Spangler Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc just does not get the appreciation it deserves especially here in Oregon and there seems to be a lack of understanding about this beautiful variety. More often then not it takes a back seat to the other, better know white varietal Chardonnay. For my money and palette finding a well done Sauvignon Blanc is something worth paying attention to and I highly recommend checking this Sauvignon Blanc out. Serve it cool but not cold and allow its beautiful fruit to shine through. The great balance of acidity keeps it refreshing and makes it a terrific wine to enjoy on its own as well as with light summer salads and pastas. Pat Spangler consistently makes beautiful Sauvignon Blanc and my understanding is this will be the last year they will produce this wine. Do yourself a huge favor and get out and try this wine while you can.

HillCrest Vineyard recently released their very first rose called “Tamas” named after the rosé king of Hungary, Duzsi Tamas. And it is a rosé made for red wine lovers. Dry with terrific intense fruit flavors and with a mouth feel that makes you smack your lips with each sip you just can't stop drinking this wine. This is definitely not your grandmother's rosé and drinks as well alone as it does paired with barbequed items. HillCrest recently released a Pinot Noir Blanc... yes, a pinot noir done like a white wine which has the color of Blanc de Noir Champagne and complex layered fruit that goes on forever. As with all of owner/wine maker Dyson DeMara's wines, the brightness and acidity is fine tuned to perfection. Another excellent summer wine addition and one that could get any self proclaimed red wine only drinker out of the red wine rut.

While on the subject of rosés and they are back in fashion in a really big way, I must draw your attention to Palotai Vineyard's Bella Rosa just right for dry rosé lovers and Becker Vineyard's Rosé which is off dry and the perfect summer deck wine for those looking for a slightly sweeter rosé.

I could not even contemplate writing this column with out singing the praises of Brandborg Vineyard's 2008 Gewurztraminer. Terry Brandborg is well known for his award winning Pinot Nor but consistently produces beautiful Gewurztraminer and this years is fantastic again. This off dry Gewurztraminer is packed with layered fruit and floral flavors with great balance of acidity and would pair very well with spicy Asian inspired barbequed meats or other spicy dishes. That is if you can wait until the food ready! Yummy all on its own too!

These are just a few of my favorites. There are so many more wonderful summer wines out there just waiting for you to discover them. The Umpqua Valley's diverse climates and soils combined with our diverse group of talented wine makers allows for so many different varieties of wines and styles. Truly something for everyone.

 

 

We’re Number One!

By now you have probably heard of the stunning award our local winery Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards received at the recent Riverside International Wine Competition held in Southern California. “Small Winery of the Year” was the honor bestowed upon the Umpqua winery after 9 of its 10 wines entered in the competition took silver medals or better.

I have written about Reustle Prayer Rock many times over the past two years. I began tasting their wines in the Spring of 2007 just after moving here. I can remember my very first visit and how impressed I was with their wines. Gloria & Stephen Reustle were new to the wine industry and they had only recently opened their tasting room. The last three years has brought huge growth for them and their winery. The addition of their wine cave being the most noticeable but less conspicuously there has been significant growth of the vineyard with new grape varieties being planted and new wines being made. They have followed in true Umpqua Valley tradition by claiming a number of firsts for the region including producing the first Grüner Veltliner in the country and building the first wine cave in the Umpqua Valley. They continue to enter their wines in many wine competitions both locally and internationally, receiving many awards and accolades. This most recent, “Small Winery of the Year” award being one of the most prestigious.

This is a deserved award for Reustle Prayer Rock. Their inexhaustible efforts toward making the very best wines possible is obvious. Stephen Reustle is as driven a vintner as I have known and his wine making style is very much his own. But for all of us in the wine industry this award is so much more than just a recognition of one winery and one winemaker. It is a validation of something much bigger. It is a just and overdue recognition of our AVA (American viticulture area) the Umpqua Valley. It is additional proof of what so many have known for so long; the Umpqua Valley produces world class wines and is a world class wine region. Richard Sommer,  Oregon's wine pioneer knew it and believed in the region so strongly he devoted much of his life to Umpqua Valley wine, paving the way for our current winemakers and their families. The terroir of the region has attracted a number of talented, driven, passionate winemakers like Stephen Reustle. The combination of this talent and mother natures gift of great land and proper climate are a recipe for greatness. Greatness that is beginning to be recognized in the world wine community.

This should make us all proud. And I mean all of us, wine lovers and non wine drinkers a like. All of Douglas County residents should stand a little taller and feel a little prouder of their home. Recognition as a legitimate wine region to be reckoned with is good for the local economy. A growing local wine industry means jobs. Award winning wines and wineries means tourist dollars coming in to our small businesses and local communities. This award won by Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards truly is an award shared by all of us here in the county. Congratulations Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards and congratulations Umpqua Valley!

One More Place to Taste…

                                                We have added another tasting room bringing to 23 the total number of locations to taste wine in the Umpqua Valley. There is nothing that excites me more then to learn of one more place to enjoy the wine making fruits of someone's labor right here in my own backyard.

My husband and I along with two of our dearest friends who enjoy wine as much as we do packed up and drove to HV Cellars new tasting room located in Tenmile just behind the Porter Creek store. We were not at all sure of what to expect. Our knowledge of HV Cellars previously called Hawks View Cellars with a winery located in Myrtle Point, was that they were doing primarily fruit wines. Since we were not fruit wine drinkers and have devoted our lives and our palettes to the appreciation of fine wine, we were a bit skeptical to say the least.

As we entered the tasting room we were pleasantly surprised to find a very neat and appealing room with a tasting bar and two additional tables where groups of four could be accommodated. Looking over the wine list we discovered HV cellars produces more than just fruit wine and we were excited to taste everything they had to offer. Evelyn, the winemakers wife who was working that day, proceeded to take us through the list. We started with the whites, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, both award winning wines and both were lovely and quite unique. We then ventured into the “red zone” and tried the Donna Rosa a Bordeaux blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Merlot added. This wine was a light bodied wine with great fruit, terrific acidity and each sip made me smile and left me wanting another taste. Evelyn told us they call this their spaghetti wine as it paired well with marinara sauce and we loved the idea of a classic French style wine pairing well with a classic Italian dish. Next we sampled the Syrah which was one of the most unusual Syrahs I had ever tasted with licorice, menthol, eucalyptus and spice all surrounding the deep fruit. We finished up the fine wine offerings with the Baco Noir which was rich and well finessed.

That left the four fruit wines. Since I am not a fruit wine drinker and had little experience with fruit wines I could not leave the tasting room without at least sampling their selection but I was absolutely positive I would not like any of them and expected each one to be a sweet, syrupy, cloying mess. Oh how wrong could a person be? We tried three of the four starting with their signature blackberry wine and “yummy” noises filled the room. The wine was like eating perfectly ripe blackberries from the vine at the peak of the season and the richness and depth of flavors was divine. The plum wine was deep and fruity had a lovely aroma of roses and flowers. The final wine was the cranberry wine which tasted exactly as you would expect anything coming from a cranberry would taste like, tart, expressive and full of flavor.

Our group left with wine to enjoy later and it might surprise some to know I took home a few bottles of the fruit wines. While fruit wines will never be regularly consumed at my house I could see a place for them. We all agreed how wonderful it was to have this new addition to our winery family making high quality fine wine and exceptional fruit wines and adding something new to the already amazing Umpqua Valley.

Outdoor Wine Tasting at its Best

It is that time of year again.  Good weather can be counted on and the days are longer providing us with more time to enjoy our lives outdoors.  With summer fast approaching I know many will be looking for great opportunities and venues to enjoy some of the best our wine country living has to offer. So at risk of sounding like a broken record it is once again time to talk about the best places to find everything you need for a mini vacation right in your own backyard.

While every local winery is worthy of visiting and each has its unique personality there are those wineries who have made big investments in providing outdoor wine country enjoyment.  At the top of my list is Julianna Vineyards and their river side deck. This deck located between their vineyard and the main Umpqua River has been extended to provide more seating and an even closer view of the river.  It is truly an idyllic setting where one can sip wine, relax and loose their cares in the peacefulness of it all.   For those who would like to take the experience one step further Julianna Vineyards is now offering Friday Night Date Night where visitors can preorder their dinners from Aromatica’s Feast in Roseburg and bring them to the Vineyard deck to enjoy with a bottle of Julianna Vineyard’s wine. A more romantic setting does not exist so whether you visit Julianna Vineyards to taste wine or to attend a Friday Night Date night, I highly recommend a visit.

Our newest tasting room Pyrenees Vineyards located just off exit 112 also has a lovely deck built right on the bank of the South Umpqua River.  You can  enjoy their Basque style tasting room and sample their varied wine line up.  Pack a picnic and spend the afternoon enjoying some wine while sitting right on the river.  Mountain views to one side and river views to the other make this a very special place.  The owners of Pyrenees have big plans for future additions to their property to make the property a true destination location and I will keep you posted on all the developments.  But don’t wait for that.  It is perfect just as it is.

Other recommendations for local wineries with outdoor space designed for visitors to stay a while include Becker Vineyard with their cozy deck with vineyard views, come for the wine and stay for the scenery.  Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyard has lovely places to picnic on their vineyard property, some available to wine club members only.  Hillcrest Vineyard added a deck last year so wine lovers can enjoy an expansive view of the Callahans while sipping their tremendous wines.  Henry Estate Winery has lovely grounds and plenty of picnic tables for couples and ideal for lager groups who are looking for a perfect place to spend some wine time.  MarshAnne Landing Winery offers a beautiful art gallery tasting room as well as a fabulous deck built high above the vines which allows maximum appreciation of views of the vineyard and surrounding rolling hills.  Bradley Vineyard in Elkton has the most delightful deck to sip wine and enjoy the vines and mature trees creating a cozy, quaint  feel.  Melrose Vineyards with their incredible well coiffed grounds is a perfect setting for a wine afternoon and Chateau Nonchalant with its delightful tasting room and expanded outside seating begs tasters to stay a while. 

Make plans to visit them all and find those wines and settings that speak to you. We will see you there…

Just Say No To Bill RU 5043

On April 15th 2010 RU 5034 a new bill was introduced into Congress which if passed will radically change the way wineries across the country and our state - particularly those right here in Douglas County- do business. And this radical change if implemented will not be good for our winery friends or for our region.

The Bill challenges current law which does not allow individual states to discriminate between in- and out-of-state wineries in matters of direct-to-consumer wine shipping. Direct-to-consumer wine shipping is now legal to varying degrees in 37 states and the District of Columbia.  One winery industry insider describe the proposed bill as  “the most onerous consumer wine law since the passage of the 18th Amendment and the onset of Prohibition”. The draft bill was written by the National Beer Wholesalers’ Association and the current bill RU5034 is virtually identical.  It is supported by the Wine & Spirits WHOLESALERS of America (WSWA) as well. These two organizations want to change the hard fought battles on the part of consumers to receive direct shipment of wines from small out of state wineries. Most recently, court decisions have been made in favor of the consumer but this bill would change that. If passed, HR 5034 will allow for new regulations to be put in place as well as reinstate old regulations on direct shipments of wine. It will also prevent any legal challenges to those regulatory barriers.

The alcohol wholesale associations are touting the legislation as necessary to protect children and minors from access to alcohol.  But to anyone well versed in the ways of purchasing alcohol on line or over the phone this is a ridiculous argument and a very obvious  ploy to guarantee a permanent monopoly for all alcohol to be distributed by their members.  All alcohol including wine, shipped through the US Postal Service, Fed Ex, UPS or any other shipping company requires a signature of someone 21 or over.  John Sasano wine blogger from California wine explains it best,”No youth ever ordered premium wine online, paid by credit card, waited a week for delivery, and presented a legal ID at delivery; if a youth were attempting to obtain alcohol, they would show up at the local convenience store with a $20 bill and ask older shoppers to buy them a 12 pack of Budweiser – instant gratification, realistic, real, no ID required. The “justification” for the bill is a charade. This is nothing more than bought and paid for politicians from both parties doing the bidding of their contributors.”

Many small, family owned wineries and that includes all of the wineries here in the Umpqua Valley rely on shipping directly to their customers to stay in business.This legislation has correctly been called anti-consumer and anti-small business by many. And it is not just the wineries that will suffer. Ending direct shipment of wine means consumers will no longer have the opportunity to enjoy limited release wines from small family owned wineries as most wholesalers don’t bother with small case lots of handcrafted artisan wines.  Consumer choice will be severely limited and support of the country's small artisan wineries will be next to impossible.

So please write or call your local representatives and tell them you oppose RU 5034.  And tell your friends to do the same. The health of our family owned wineries and our local economy depend on it!

What to do with Mediocre Wine?

I recently read an article in one of the various wine and food magazines I subscribe to entitled “When a Mediocre Wine is Good News”. The author, rather than lamenting the dreaded experience of opening a bottle of wine and finding it to be less spectacular then hoped, actually embraced the situation by using the wine as an inspiration in creating some wonderful new dishes.

While most chefs and foodies will agree you would never want to cook with wines you would not drink, cooking with an ok wine is considered acceptable.  As someone who loves to cook and is constantly experimenting with food and wine- both together in the same dish and separately but served together in food and wine pairings- I have a few other thoughts on mediocre wine and what you can do get the most out of it.

First off I would like to mention if you open a wine and are a bit disappointed make sure the wine is at the right temperature before you rush to judgment.  There is nothing more easily tweaked nor a mistake more easily made then serving temperature. Nothing can change the taste of a wine as much as the temperature and wines served too cold or too warm will not show their best.  It is amazing what even just 5-10 degrees can do for a wine!  The second thing is if the wine you are not feeling the love for is a red wine it is entirely possible it just needs a little time to open up.  Especially if the wine is young.  So before you decide the wine is only good for cooking… let it breath.  I can’t tell you how many times I have opened a bottle of red wine and found it tight and less than interesting only to give it time.  Sometimes a wine needs an hour or two and some can even benefit from being open over night.   But when you find yourself in that predicament where there is just no way around the fact that you have purchased a wine that is a bit of a dud, I have some ideas on how to enjoy the wine anyway.  You can even have a bit of fun while you are at it and these two ideas are perfect for warmer weather and summertime gatherings. The first recommendation is to make Sangria.  Just add seasonal fresh fruit and some sparkling water or citrus flavored soda and you have a fun wine punch with a kick.  Great for barbeques and can be made with both white and red wines. Wine coolers can be very nice and refreshing and I especially like them made with big red wines.  Just mix seven- up with your wine and serve over ice.  Perfect for that day at the river when you will no doubt get too much sun and will need some refreshing libations too keep you cool.

But the best way to reduce the times you end up with a wine you are not overly crazy about is to taste before you buy.  Those of us living here can do that by visiting our local wineries and checking out the current releases.   Makes it easy to find wines you really like and takes the guess work out of it all.  Not only easier, but so much more fun then standing in the wine isle in the grocery store  perplexed at the huge array of wines with no idea as to the quality or taste of any of them. For so many who like wine and want to be more adventurous, the thought of making a mistake forces us to buy the same wines over and over again.  Life is too short for that and visiting your local winery takes all the guess work out of finding great wines.  Trust me there is no shortage of quality, delicious wine made right here!   I can’t remember the last time I made Sangria or wine coolers….

Roll Out The Barrel

Saturday was the first Barrel Tour of the year and as always it appeared a good time was had by all.  The weather was just right. Started out a bit cool in the morning but by the afternoon the sun came out and it was beautiful, adding real sunshine to the liquid sunshine that flowed throughout the day. All of this made for a truly festive day!

For those of you who have never experienced the Barrel Tour it is a wine tour put on twice each spring by the Umpqua Valley Wine Growers Association. All of the Umpqua Valley wineries participate and the area is split up into three tour routes, each route including wineries based on geographical location.   Each tour, the north, central and the south encompasses 6 or 7 wineries and school buses are rented for the day with professional bus drivers responsible for getting everyone safely from each winery to the next.  Each winery visit is about 45 minutes allowing for just the right amount of time to taste the various food and wine pairings lovingly prepared and offered at each winery. 
This time the central tour sold out but the south and the north tours were not as full.  I had the pleasure of pouring for Becker Vineyard included in the central tour and the seven buses with 50 people per bus, beginning at 9:30 am and ending at around 5:00 pm, made for a very full day!  Chatting with the folks about the various wines and unique food pairings they were experiencing along the way it was obvious everyone was feeling well taken care of and enjoying themselves immensely. I spoke to a number of people from outside of our area. Many came from Eugene, Portland, Bend and the coast and it was really good to see so many visiting from other parts of our state.  Our high quality wine and natural beauty was not lost on these visitors and  many talked of the obvious magic of our area. I have to say it made me proud to hear such kind, appreciative words spoken about my community.

Putting on this event takes tremendous planning from the winery association and from every winery.  There is a substantial time, energy and monetary commitment each winery must make to secure the desired outcome of so many happy visitors. The wineries receive almost no compensation for their contribution and participation in the event. The $50 fee charged to those touring goes to cover the operating costs of the event and for future events and is not paid to the wineries. When all is said and done with the cost of food, wine and hiring the necessary help to put it all together, it is an investment they make for the opportunity to share and promote their wines.

The next Barrel Tour is scheduled for May 22nd.  And there is still space available and still time to sign up to tour.  If you go, have fun and remember to pace yourself.  It is a unique experience to be able to sample a wine before you purchase so when you find a wine you like, support your local family owned winery and take a bottle or two home.  The wineries will appreciate it and so will you when you serve it!  Summer is just around the corner and is the very best time for enjoying outdoor dining with friends & family and wine just makes it all that much more enjoyable...Cheers!
/Diane Clerihue-Smith and her husband H. Bruce Smith run "Oregon Wine Country Tours" based in the Umpqua Valley. OWCT.us or 866-WINEVAN/

HillCrest Vineyard Keeps Our Mouths Watering

There is always something new happening in the world of wine. With different wine trends and emerging new wine regions something is always going on to get your interest peeked and your mouth watering. In the Umpqua Valley this is no exception and there is one winery in particular that can always be counted on for a unique, mouth watering, wine experience.

The winery I am referring to is HillCrest Vineyard located in the Melrose area of Roseburg. HillCrest is the oldest winery in the state of Oregon post prohibition and is where the very first Pinot Noir vine was ever planted in our beautiful state -now famous for the same varietal. Dyson and his wife Susan run the winery with the help of their children and Dyson's 25 plus years of wine experience and his passion for wine making shows up in everything he does. Since HillCrest wines are only available at the winery and Dyson does not worry about wine awards and pleasing judges who too often are looking for wines that fit into a particular, narrow frame work, he is free to experiment and try new things. He makes wines he likes and that please him and in doing so, he please many others as well. He refers to his passion for wine making as his “sickness” and has a huge, loyal following.

Take his new Rosé bottled just a few days ago. This 2009 “Tamas” was inspired by meeting a famous wine maker on his recent trip to Hungary. Duszi Tamas is known as the “King of Rosé” in that country where Rosé is hugely popular. Rosé is drunk as an aperitif, with meals and on into the night. They like their Rosé so much in Hungary they even make cocktails out of it which quenches thirsts while delivering a bit of a kick! True to the European style of Rosés, HillCrest's “Tamas” is dry with a bright beautiful acidity that appeals to red wine drinkers.

And if you thought the “Tamas” sounds exciting and believe me, it is, you will be overwhelmed by Dyson's new 2009 “Inside Out “ - Pinot Noir Blanc. This wine is the very first of its kind here and is like nothing you have ever tasted. It is made from Pinot Noir but made more like a Chardonnay, gently pressed and made into a very light colored full bodied white wine that has the color of Blanc de Noir Champagne. The wine is unoaked and driven by rich round fruit with an exquisite perfumed strawberry finish that goes on forever.

These are just two of HillCrest's newest wines but certainly not the only two unique or worth writing about. I have written previously about his amazing Chardonnay and his Syrahs are some of the best I have tasted. His Zinfandel a varietal almost impossible to find here, is so rich and full bodied and when paired with cheese enchiladas makes a marriage in your mouth that boarders ecstasy. He makes beautiful European style Rieslings that make you cry and a visit to the winery and a talk with Dyson is an experience you will not forget. This year HillCrest will be home to a European style artisan distillery specializing in Eau de Vie and fruit distillates. Ah, yes...just part of Dyson's self proclaimed “sickness” as he calls it. I just hope as do many of us, that he never gets “well”!

Roseburg Will Be the “City of Wine” Regardless of its Name

By now you have no   doubt heard about the generous donation made by local attorney Danny Lang to the the Southern Oregon Wine Institute. The $800,000.00 donation was pledged and accepted and with the donation, The Danny Lang Teaching, Learning and Event Center will be the new name of the 24,000 square foot facility planned for the west side of the UCC campus.

I was there at the UCC board meeting when they announced the exciting news. To hear Mr. Lang talk about his humble beginnings and his commitment to affordable education for all, was truly inspiring. As a tireless supporter of learning and education for years Mr. Lang wanted to give back to his community in a way that would positively impact our area’s future.  The wine institute and the enology/viticulture program would allow for students to receive an education in a field where employment opportunities would be available to them right here allowing our youth to find meaningful jobs without having to leave their home town. While self admittedly not much of a wine drinker, Mr. Lang understood the wine industry’s bright future here and the new facility would be a great way for him to give back while moving our community forward.

This optimistic outlook on the wine industry comes from studying other wine regions like ours. Case in point is Walla Walla Washington which seems to mirror the Umpqua Valley in many ways. This area was an unknown, unheard of wine region better known for its growing of onions and wheat then with its growing of grapes and production of wine. With only a dozen or so wineries in the late 1990's the region now boasts over 100 wineries and growing. Much of this is attributed to the addition of the wine institute enology/ viticulture program at the community college there. The wine boom has been extremely good for the local economy  and Walla Walla Washington is now well known as a world class wine region.

So when I read exciting news about a possible revitalization plan for my fair city with attention to one of the most attractive yet inaccessible parts of Roseburg, the water front, it was surprising to hear that there is debate or consideration as to the appropriate “new identity” to our city.  One much touted idea is the city of waterfalls. And while I love our easy to find and easy to access waterfalls, the idea is out of touch and can I say a bit... absurd? The reason for assigning an identity to your city is to grow enthusiasm and interest in it and promoting something that resonates with people in a meaningful way. And while waterfalls and covered bridges are nice, they do not employ people and I don't know of anyone visiting Napa, Sonoma or Walla Walla for either of those things. Nor have I heard of the promotion of waterfalls contributing to the economic growth of any small town.

We are all well aware that secure jobs are essential to a healthy country and our county. Most of us know too that times are changing and timber is no longer an industry that will keep Douglas County economically healthy. We need to look to other industries.  The wine industry and the tourism resulting from wine IS the future for Roseburg. Just like it was for Walla Walla and Napa. The business of wine employs people and supports new business.  Wine can and will bring back economic health to our beloved county. But we have to embrace it. Those who can not see the forest for the trees and are blind to the obvious possibilities for our region that a healthy wine industry brings, will eventually see it all very clearly after it happens. But for now as we are making it happen and growing this industry, we need visionaries and those more in touch to be responsible for making important decisions that will affect every one of us living here. Roseburg will be the City of Wine. There is no doubt in my mind and there are wiser, smarter people then I who agree with this conclusion. So how could we even consider calling it something else?

The “Just Right” Temperature!

 

I have written before about the importance of serving temperatures for wine but I had two experiences last week that made me think it was time to bring the whole subject up once again.  While I was enjoying two wines on two separate occasions the circumstances around enjoying each of them meant there was quite a bit of time between the first glass and the second.  The second glass was so profoundly different in taste compared to the first glass due only to a little breathing time and a change in temperature. And while I know very well how temperature can dramatically change the taste of a wine -so much so that the subject of temperature is a big part of our wine education when touring with clients - it had been a long time since I had been in a position to taste a good wine at the wrong temperature.  Wow what an eye opener!

In both instances they were  local wines.  One was a Syrah and the other a Sauvignon Blanc.  In the case of the Syrah it was first tasted  at 55 degrees and by the time I got back to the wine it was now closer to 65 degrees.  I usually like my reds a bit cooler but in this case this wine really popped at the warmer temperature!  The bold fruit was bright and concentrated and the smoky black pepper nuances were a wonderful contrast with the sweetness of the fruit and made the whole wine sing in my mouth.  The way the wine sat on my tongue was almost like velvet and I savored every sip allowing each mouthful to spend ample time saturating my very happy palette. In the case of the Sauvignon Blanc my first taste was at about 58 degrees and the second taste was a good 15 degrees cooler. I like my whites - providing they are well crafted wines as this was -a bit warmer then most wine drinkers.  Usually around 55 degrees.  In this case the first glass was silky smooth and had the most beautiful nectarine and honey combined with the typical grapefruit taste characteristics you get with Sauv Blanc. The first glass had so much going on and there was layers of flavors and aromas that were just delightful. The whole wine was well balanced with just the right acid and fruit. I thought the wine was at the perfect temperature and not wanting it to get any warmer, put it in the fridge for what I thought would be just a few minutes, but by the time I got back to enjoy another glass, the wine  had cooled significantly.  The wine was now almost all grapefruit and acid and the interesting, subtle, softer flavor nuances of honey and nectarine were just a memory.  Wow! This wine had gone from a really interesting wine with so much to enjoy to a one dimensional taste experience!

Little things matter when it comes to getting the most out of your wines. Temperature is so important and easy to manage and serving our wines at the best temperature is of the things we can do to really make our quality wines shine! 

40th annual Greatest of the Grape Awards

Last Saturday, the 40^th annual Greatest of the Grape event was held at the Seven Feathers Resort in Canyonville and as usual everyone had a great time. Sometimes at events like this I wonder who has more fun and who comes to the event with more anticipation, the ticket holders or the exhibitors.

This is the biggest wine event of the year for the Umpqua Valley and Southern Oregon and after 40 years it has the reputation as a not to be missed party. For the wine makers and food purveyors who are involved, it is a chance to show off their talents and hopefully receive some recognition for their artistry, creativity and just plain hard work! The goal is for the wineries to showcase their best wines and local chefs to pair their best culinary treats to specific wines. The result for attendees is a sensory overload  calling for a day or two recuperation.   For those chefs and vintners who particularly please, awards are given and bragging rights determined.

The awards given at this event fall into two categories. The peoples choice awards and those awards given by a panel of guest wine judges. The wine judging by the professionals is done a few weeks before the event and the results tallied and kept secret. The peoples choice awards are voted on right there at the event. The results from both judgings are announced at the end of the evening so the entire four hours, 7-11 is filled with anticipation and excitement.

This year some of the most notable awards are as follows:

UCC Culinary School won the Judges Award for the best food and Tomaselli's came in second place. The professional judges awarded Spangler Vineyards a Platinum for their 2008 Malbec. Gold medals went to Giardet for their 2008 Zinfandel and to Bradley Vineyards for their 2008 Dry Riesling. Silver medals were awarded to Brandborg Vineyards & Winery 2008 Pinot Gris, Anindor Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris, Misty Oaks Vineyard 2008 Pinot Gris and Melrose Vineyards 2008 Viognier.

The peoples choice awards for best white was award to Trium Winery located in the Rogue Valley for their 2008 Pinot Gris and the second best white wine choice by the people was for Becker Vineyard 2009 Muller Thurgau. The peoples choice for the Best Red was Palotai Vineyard's 2008 Atilla and Abacela Winery 2005 Tempranillo Reserve came in second place. The top honor of the event, The Greatest of the Grape Award, went to Spangler Vineyards 2008 Malbec.

Huge congratulations to the award winners. And to all of those who worked so very hard to put this event together. Keeping the Greatest of the Grape tradition alive for 40 years is a huge accomplishment and speaks to the commitment of our wineries and restaurants. Not to mention the commitment of those wine lovers who can not imagine missing the yearly event! For those who did not attend,  make a trip to the wineries to sample these award wining wines. And you might want to hurry before they are sold out!

Show some support

Visiting a tasting room to sample wine is a very unique experience.  Certainly each winery has a different personality and each vintner has a different wine making style but the winery experience is unique in another way as well.  It is one of the only places you can go and sample a consumable product before buying.  And here in the Umpqua Valley very often this can be done for free.

The purpose of a tasting room is to sell wine. For most of our local wineries the winery is the only place you can buy their wines.  In this day and age when everything is expensive, this tradition of free samples at the winery can only be found in smaller wine regions.  Complimentary tasting in Napa and most parts of California is just not available anymore.  With an insiders knowledge of just what it entails to produce a bottle of wine, most would be asking why any winery can still be this generous. 

The process of producing wine is lengthy and expensive.  Here in Douglas County all of our local wineries are vineyards too.  To begin the process of selling a bottle of wine, one must first purchase the land.   The land then needs to be cleared and made suitable for planting. It is at least three years before the vines are mature enough to produce grapes ready for wine and after the laborious and sometimes expensive chore of picking the grapes, it is several months before the whites are ready and up to several years for the reds. The equipment used to make wine is extraordinarily expensive with barrels commonly used for aging reds costing between $400.00 and upwards of $1000.00.  Stainless steel tanks often used for whites are thousands of dollars and the farm equipment for the managing of the vineyard is another expense. For at least the first five years and in many cases longer there is a huge investment in both time, money and energy.  Our farmer/ wine makers are up to the whim of mother nature and she can present a whole range of difficulties which translate into less fruit for wine, cutting in to the potential return on investment.

If you consider the going rate for all the man hours that go into the production of just one bottle of wine and add that to the cost of the equipment necessary in the wine making process, a bottle of wine here in the Umpqua Valley  easily costs over $100 to produce.  Considering most wines range from $15-$40 this is an unbeatable value.  It is the free time and labor of the winemaker and his family and the focus on the long term that allows us the consumer to get such a bargain!

So for those of us who visit a winery and are offered and accept complimentary tastings remember just what is being served to you.  This is some ones life.  There is a saying in the winery industry that is common knowledge among wine makers and it is no joke, “If you want to make a small fortune in the wine industry start with a large one.” You may ask yourself why they do it. And that would be a fair question.  The answer is just one more unique part of the winery experience.  These wine makers are absolutely passionate about what they do.  Winemakers look to the future and  hope the investment pays off and in the mean time continue to practice their art and love of making wine.  We need to be mindful of this when we visit.  And we need to show our appreciation as well as our support for their hard work and generosity by purchasing a bottle of two.  Proper tasting room etiquette suggests when tasting for free a purchase of at least one bottle is appropriate. If we take their passion and generosity for granted, it might just disappear.

From Vine to Bottle

 

Last Thursday  was a  terrific day!  I was invited to attend the bottling session at Spangler Vineyards in Winston.  A number of Spangler wines were ready for the final step in the process of turning fruit to wine and the bottling truck had been ordered for the day. 

Some wineries have their own bottling equipment but many especially smaller wineries where winery space is at a premium opt to hire a bottling truck when the time comes for this important step.  This mobile assembly line is housed in the back of a big truck  that can be driven to any winery location at any time. Contained inside is the equipment necessary for getting the wine into the bottles, the corks inserted, the capsules on top (that’s the foil that covers the top and neck of the bottle) and the labels adhered to the front and back of each bottle.

I arrived late morning and by the time I got there things were well on their way.  Volunteers were scattered about in the truck along the assembly line each with one job assignment. Some were responsible for putting a cork atop each bottle and others were packing the completed bottles into cases while others were sealing the boxes and stacking them on to pallets.  I could not help envision that famous I Love Lucy episode where she and Ethel are working in the candy factory and the assembly line starts to speed up way beyond their ability to keep up. Candy is flying and Lucy and Ethel are in a panic! Of course nothing like that occurred this time and I am happy to report everything appeared to go off without a hitch.

After I spent some time witnessing the well orchestrated bottling, Pat Spangler was able to slip away for a bit and we ended up in the tasting room to try a few wines.  I am a huge fan of Pat’s wines.  Big, bold well rounded reds and lovely, well finessed, fruity whites.  I so appreciate the attention given to subtle oak and in some cases as in his Chardonnay, no oak at all.  Pat is a master blender and over the years honed his craft of bringing just the right wines together in just the right amounts to really take them to a world class level.  The medals, awards and accolades his wines realize are too numerous to mention here but are evidence of his talents.  I went home with Malbec, Petite Sirah, Cab Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and his beautiful Sauvignon Blanc.

And to top off the wonderful time spent at Spangler Vineyards, my husband and I had another terrific experience.  Needing lunch and wanting to try something new we stopped at the new Indian restaurant, Flavors of India, located right by Big Lots in Roseburg.   With the guidance of both Jessica our delightful waitress and Raghu owner/chef we ordered several different dishes and each one was excellent.  We had enough left over for dinner that night so we were able to take our delicious day into the evening.

I can not tell you how happy I was to hear of an Indian restaurant opening here.  Growing up and living in a more diverse area finding restaurants featuring foods from all over the world was as almost as easy as finding a Mc Donalds.  And I took advantage of the availability of such culinary diversity by making Vietnamese, Korean, Indian,Thai and Japanese foods, mainstays in my diet. For me I feel very much about food as I do about wine.  Variety is the spice of life.  We certainly have that in our wines.  So glad to see us moving in that direction with our restaurants.

Wine or Weddings?

Most of us have never really given much thought to winery zoning and all that these regulations entail.  We visit a winery to taste wine or to attend an event  and we enjoy the uniqueness of the winery setting often as much as we enjoy the uniqueness of the wines. But for some, the consideration of what constitutes wine related business and farm use and how different wineries are adhering to the zoning laws has weighed heavily on their minds.

It seems there has been much confusion within the winery industry over what types of events Oregon wineries are legally allowed to host and what percentage of a winery’s revenue can come from non wine events such as weddings and parties. So last week the Oregon legislature passed the bill 1055 which will bring uniformity to a patchwork of local and state regulations spelling out what events are allowed at wineries and how much nonwine sales are permitted. 

Over the years farm and environmental groups  have expressed concern that events such as weddings and concerts were not part of exclusive farm-use zoning.  The worry was that as the wine industry grows and the popularity of the winery setting as a venue for all sorts of different gatherings - many unrelated to winemaking or grape growing -would quickly begin to erode the specific intent of exclusive-farm-use zoning.

In working on the bill, wine growers said they wanted to preserve the time-honored nature of rural vineyards and wineries and prevent them from becoming event centers, yet also provide opportunities for creating a sustainable bottom line.

All three interests — agriculture, environmental and wine growers — had  a say in crafting the bill which defines "incidental activity" at wineries as private events that promote the sale of its wines. It also limits sales of catered food and nonwine items to 25 percent of on-site retail wine sales.

I think it is a good thing to have clarification on the subject and it sounds like the bill was a darn good compromise between all those with an interest in the outcome.  No doubt there will be wineries who will take issue with the restrictions.  Some of the bigger, more commercial and corporate owned wineries who depend heavily on the revenue generated from events but are not zoned for commercial/tourism,  will certainly have to make changes. But for those vintners who are truly committed to the craft and art of winemaking this will have little to no affect.  Especially here in the Umpqua Valley where our family owned wineries devote their time to the production of quality wine and not to the production of…productions!  Here in our magical world of the small winery and the hands on winemaker, wine life continues on just as before.  And we like it that way!

 

To Pinot or Not to Pinot…?

I couldn’t help but smile a bit at a recent article written about the big scandal over Gallo’s Red Bicyclette “pinot noir” which turned out to not be so pinot after all. Seems Gallo’s French suppliers of the supposed pinot sold them red table wine that was only partly pinot with merlot and syrah added but at a pure pinot price, more than doubling their profits.
And absolutely no one complained or had a clue until the customs department realized the pinot being exported far exceeded the total amount of wine that the region produced. Gallo was completely unaware of the scam and had nothing to do with tricking the wine public. They were duped into believing the bulk wine they purchased to be as it was touted, pure, high quality pinot noir from the Languedoc region of France.
So why would this story make me smile? Gallo marketed this wine as a wine their company was intensely involved in the making of. They referred to it as a taste of “Southern France” and wrote in detail about the vineyard the grapes were sourced from, the climate of the region and the oak aging and barrel fermentation of the wine as if Gallo wine makers had “hands on” involvement in the “crafting” of this “artisan” wine. When in fact it was actually their complete lack of involvement in the making of the wine that made it clear they were not involved in the charade! And while it is sad to hear of a lack of integrity in the wine world it does not come as any surprise. This is not the first time wine has been manipulated or misrepresented and will certainly not be the last. Nor am I surprised by the misrepresentation and the artistic license Gallo took when writing their marketing material for this particular wine. Self promotion as family owned, hands on vintners is standard practice by corporate wineries world wide.
And what turned the smile on my face to an all out grin was when I read that in their defense, the French wine makers said that the Americans with their gauche wine palettes did not even notice the difference. One attorney stated not a single American consumer complained. And this is absolutely true! Not only did no one complain, this wine won high praise from different wine judges, not only Americans mind you and was thought to be a terrific pinot for $9!
This whole debacle says so much more to me then what it looks like at face value: opportunistic business men decide to rip off an unsuspecting big corporation who will probably never know the difference. It reeks of arrogance. Arrogance too often found in the world of wine. And not just on the part of the French, but on the part of corporate wineries as well with their disingenuous, self promotion of hands on wine making not even close to what the reality is or was. It also suggests something else quite unfortunate. Americans in their all consuming quest for high quality wine at table wine prices have set up the perfect climate to be taken advantage of. A high quality pinot noir from a world class wine region would be difficult if not impossible to make and sell for under $10 and still afford a profit to the wine maker. So why not label and drink this Red Bicyclette as a fairly priced, French red table wine and enjoy! No arrogance here!

Spring is in the Air

With spring just around the corner it is time once again when plans for the annual Barrel Tour are in full swing. The Barrel Tour is an event that boasts a long history, 26 years and going strong, and has become to symbolize the kick off of wine season here in the Umpqua Valley.

So in a new year coming off recent press of our area being the number 5 destination for U.S. wine travelers and with Sunset Magazine calling us (Southern Oregon to be exact) the next Napa Valley, I can not help but feel an overwhelming desire for an event like this to really develop into the high end wine experience you would expect when visiting a world class wine region. To see our signature events take themselves a bit more seriously and gear themselves less toward the “partier” and more toward the wine interested attendee.

For those who read this column on a regular basis you are probably well aware that no one enjoys a party more than me. I just feel strongly there is a time and place for everything and just maybe, we could take this wonderful tradition of our barrel tour and bring it to the next level! I would love to see the barrel tour expand into a two or three day weekend event. Perhaps we could even have barrel samples at every winery so those attending for the first time would feel like there was some validity to the name. There is very little that excites wine lovers as much as the opportunity to taste young wine from the barrel! Event goers would transport themselves in their own vehicles and on their own schedule to each winery. This would create the feeling of a relaxed, gentile pace more conducive to the true wine experience and would allow for winery personnel and the wine makers to truly connect with their guests in a more meaningful way. Visitors would be able to choose the wineries they wanted to visit and would have two or three days to fit it all in. Having the time to truly experience each winery visit and their particular uniqueness supports those wine interested folks who are looking to expand their wine horizons. People who make wine a regular part of their lives will come away with not just a good time but will have a better understanding of what the Umpqua Valley has to offer. Those attendees desiring a party could hire a designated driver or a limo and party away. I think it is safe to say the turn out for an event like this may initially be less in numbers, but with the focus on quality and not quantity this type of event would grow quickly. For the host wineries as well as for those attending, I have no doubt having a few less people overall but with more people serious about wine appreciation, this type of tour would be a win win for all. Not to mention by spreading the event over two or three days encourages those from out of the area to stay for a while and support other businesses during their time here.

I am hugely respectful of the many years of the barrel tour event and give kudos to those who through the last two and a half decades have worked hard to keep this tradition intact and going strong. My experiences living and traveling other world class wine regions just makes me aware of areas we can improve and what we compete against. Taking away best practices from other high end, highly regarded wine events is smart and is how we will continue to live up to our expanding reputation. A reputation we no doubt deserve and one that will continue to grow if we keep raising the bar…

A Little Spanish Flare!

The most exciting part to exploring a new wine region is coming across wines and varietals that are new to you. Until moving to Roseburg, I had never tasted Tempranillo and had only heard of it maybe once or twice. Coming from a wine region where the grape is not widely planted, I was intrigued by its popularity here and how that all came to be.
Tempranillo is a variety of black grape widely grown to make full-bodied red wines in its native Spain. It is the main grape used in Rioja, and is often referred to as Spain's "noble grape". In the last 100 years it has been planted in South America, South Africa, Australia, the US and Canada. Tempranillo wines can be consumed young, but the most expensive and highly coveted are the ones are aged in oak for several years. The wines are deep ruby red to almost purple in color, with aromas and flavors of berries, plum, tobacco, vanilla, leather and herbs.
Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word temprano meaning "early" which is suggestive of the grapes early ripening characteristic. The fact that it flourishes in cooler climates and at higher altitudes is the biggest reason it is not prolific in most parts of California and why it does so well here in the Umpqua Valley. Earl Jones of Abacela Winery can be credited for figuring all this out. It was his love of Spanish Tempranillo and the wines ability to pair beautifully with so many of the foods Earl enjoyed most, that led him on his quest to find just the right spot to grow this grape. After much research and deliberation Earl and his wife Hilda moved to the Umpqua Valley and started growing Tempranillo being the fist to introduce this grape to Oregon!
At this time there are only a handful of local wineries producing it as a stand alone varietal. Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards, Delfino Vineyards, Chateau Nonchalant and Abacela Winery. All of these wineries grow and produce several different varieties but at Abacela, Tempranillo is their main focus. And this focus has paid off big with so many awards and accolades for so many of their Tempranillo’s it is impossible to list them all. The most prestigious award by far was taking gold at last April’s Tempranillos al Mundo competition. This competition considered “the world series” of Tempranillos was held in Stockholm Sweden and judged by Spanish and international wine judges. The gold medal Abacela received was the only gold medal awarded to any Tempranillo produced outside of Spain! Certainly Abacela Winery is not new to very prestigious awards, most notably with their Albarino (another Spanish variety) and their Reserve Syrah receiving high praise and points from well respected wine periodicals, but this gold for their Tempranillo was the fulfillment of their dreams.
To have committed vintners living here realizing their dreams is the magic that makes our region so special. As the Umpqua Valley strives for the understanding and respect we so deserve, receiving awards in the international arena are tremendously meaningful. Every recognition of the quality of our local wines moves us one step closer to realizing our potential as “the next big wine region“…

Home is Where the Wine is Made!

Through the years I have had various opportunities to try wine made by amateur wine makers.  You know those people making wine in their garages or basements?  For some well respected wine makers it is the way they began their wine making career.  For many it starts as a hobby and remains just that.  A part time endeavor making wine for personal consumption.
Now you never know what you are going to experience when it comes to tasting homemade wine.  Wine can be made from just about any fruit and through the years I have tasted wines of all different qualities from very good to undrinkable.  Hey, I have had wines from legitimate wineries I found undrinkable.  You just never know and that is part of the excitement of new wine experiences.  So when my husband and I were invited to try some wine made by a local Douglas County resident I was absolutely game.
Dale and his wife Betty are long time area residents and have a small garage at their home devoted to wine.  Dale has been dabbling in wine making for several years and currently makes Baco Noir, Pinot Noir and Merlot with grapes sourced from an established vineyard in the Melrose area of Roseburg.  His “winery” is clean and organized suggesting a promising tasting experience and that is exactly how it shapes up.   We start with the ’09s in the barrel and  finish up with some ‘08s and ‘07s in the bottle. We even get a taste of Dales pride, an ’01 Merlot.  By the third barrel sample it is obvious to my husband and me, Dale knows what he is doing and the 15 years he has spent at his hobby has paid off. He is indeed making some quality wine. 
I particularly enjoyed his two pinots that included wine made from grapes off a 777 clone.  These two pinots had bright fruit flavors combined with floral and earthy nuances and were delightful.  Dales ‘07 Merlot was a lighter bodied Merlot packed with flavor and very well balanced.  The two Baco’s were also lighter bodied with classic Baco flavors of  deep, black fruit, anise and spice.  Very nice and again very well balanced.  Frankly, both my husband and I were quite impressed. Our thoughts were very simply, that these wines were better then some wines we have paid to taste at various wineries in our life time!
I would have loved to encourage Dale to go “pro” and start selling his wines and even start a winery.  You know me…when I taste good wine I just can’t help but want everyone to have the same experience.   But it doesn’t appear Dale and Betty are interested in taking his obvious abilities to the next level.  But tasting Dale’s quality wine got me and my husband thinking.  How many other home wine makers are out there making quality juice? How many more Dales are out there, right now under our noses making wine too good to be missed?  In an area like ours rich with wine history and great grapes there has to be more.  So we have started a home wine makers group called UmpquaValleyVinophiles(http://groups.google.com/group/umpquavinophile)
in hopes of flushing out other talented home wine makers.  If  you’re out there let us know.  Lets get together and talk wine…

Time to Up the Ante!

For those of you who think I am a tad overly optimistic and excited about our areas potential as a highly regarded wine region, I must draw your attention to yet one more validating piece of publicity. The January issue of Sunset Magazine (yes thee Sunset Magazine) printed a story on the Southern Oregon AVA and in their words called it “The next big wine country: Southern Oregon!”

While the article had some inaccurate information regarding location of some of the wineries i.e.: putting Abacela in the Applegate Valley and reporting Jacksonville was part of the Umpqua Valley, the message was very clear. The exciting wines, no crowds and inexpensive tasting fees made it a top destination choice for wine tourists. How proud our wineries must feel to have a publication with the readership and prestige of _Sunset Magazine _report so clearly what so many of us know to be true!

I can’t help but notice within the story and within the responses to the article on their web site (Sunset.com, search for Southern Oregon), Josephine County and the Rogue and Applegate area received more enthusiastic comments then Douglas County and the Umpqua Valley. A number of tourists wrote in on their love for Jacksonville with the great restaurants, and bars, the Britt Theater and the culture and intrigue of the downtown area. Out of 22 comments on the article 14 expressed a love for Jacksonville. This appreciation and love for this area was voiced by people from Napa, Portland and San Francisco. Unfortunately, there was not one response from travelers expressing their love of Roseburg and the Umpqua Valley.

To me, even with my sometimes overly passionate feelings about my home town of Roseburg I know why there is not the enthusiasm for our area their could be. And why Josephine County and the Rogue AVA receives more committed wine travelers then we do. Simply put they have done a better job of growing and promoting their towns with business and events that tie in beautifully with wine interested travelers making for a total experience. Jacksonville boasts great wine & wineries, excellent restaurants, hip wine bars and shops and interesting boutiques. This is all combined with cultural events held at the theater as well as other events geared to the sophisticated consumer such as those who travel for wine! As a town who’s biggest cultural event is our Graffiti Days, Roseburg is a bit behind the times when it comes to offering supportive events for the more discerning tourist.

Douglas County has it all with the our rivers and unspoiled natural beauty, our historic downtown and excellent wines and beautiful wineries. We just need to bring it all together with higher quality dinning choices, better night life options and more interesting cultural events. We have the great wine, unfortunately wine travelers need and want more. I see progress in this area and know it is just a matter of time before a true vision for our county as a wine destination comes into focus. And when it does we will all benefit from it.

P.S.  Today is the Girl on Grapes birthday!  Cheers!

A Pinch of That, A Pinch of This!

There is much to consider when making wine. So much so, that when I really think about it, it boggles my mind. Everything from what varietal to grow and make to which barrels to use, to when to bottle and release it. Within each of these decisions there are literally hundreds if not thousands of possibilities! And we haven’t even talked about all of the possibilities of blending!

When you purchase a bottle of wine and it is labeled by its varietal name, this indicates it is at least 75% of that variety. In Oregon, many wines labeled with their varietal name must be 90%. Then there are the plethora of lovely blends that do not contain the 75% of one varietal. These can often consist of a combination of more than three or four different complimentary wines. A perfect example would be a Claret (also known as a Bordeaux blend) which would most definitely contain Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab Franc but might also include Petite Verdot and/or Malbec. Just how much of each wine to add to make just the right recipe is determined by the wine maker and varies from year to year depending on the characteristics of the wines. Spangler Vineyards makes an excellent Claret among so many other quality wines. Pat Spangler wine maker and co owner of the winery along with his wife Loree, truly understands the art of blending.

There are many blends out there that are not classic blends so are not dictated to some degree by a certain “recipe” of even the type of grapes used. A perfect example is Bulls Blood which is purposely an unorthodox mix of red grapes varieties. So how to decide what goes in and how much of any one grape? A daunting thought to me. One of my favorite blends is a fairly new concept that has caught on in a very big way all over the world and that is the marriage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. But just how much Syrah and how much Cab? Dyson DeMara wine maker and along with his wife Susan owns HillCrest Vineyards, makes a Cab, Syrah, Zinfandel blend that is out of this world! How did that come about and how did he decide how much of each wine would result in the best combination? Dyson is one of the most talented wine makers I have had the pleasure of meeting and he makes it look easy! It is obviously not easy as the possibilities are potentially infinite. And, if it was so easy, then why are there so many mediocre and bad wines in the world?

As I was out barrel tasting some wines this weekend, which by the way were absolutely amazing, I was struck by just how much artistry goes into putting together a bottle of wine. How much needs to be done, but also how much needs to be truly understood about each different wine. The time and commitment involved with following a wine as it evolves is huge and the ability to understand each wines personality and structure comes from experience. To have the palate necessary to taste a wine and know which direction you want to take it or better yet, honoring the direction the wine itself wants to go, is nothing short of amazing. Next time you open a quality bottle of wine, those wines that really make your mouth sing ( and we here in the Umpqua Valley have so many premium local wines that do just that), think about all the artistry that makes it just that way…Wow!